Crocheted Summer Tank Top
A crocheted summer top to wear with jeans; skirts or pants. For evenings with a sheer shirt overtop or stands on it’s own because of the stitch pattern and contemporary design. You can also loop a scarf or a beautiful piece of silk fabric through the decorative loops at the bottom of the garment.
- Lion Brand Yarn “Organic Cotton” 6 balls of the Almond color (http://www.lionbrand.com/yarns/organiccotton.html) or equivalent yarn for gauge and hook.
- Hook size Aero 4.00 (or equivalent)
Size: 10/12 American size (32/34 inch “C” cup bust). It is not for women with substantial arms. The one viewed is for smaller arms. It is waist length for
5 feet 2 inch person.
GAUGE: 5 hdc = 1 inch
3 rows = 1 inch
ABBREVIATIONS: SC = single crochet
CH = chain
LP = loop
SL ST = slip stitch
YO = yarn over
SK = skip
ST = stitch
HDC = half double crochet (double knot stitch)
TRC = Triple or treble crochet
INSTRUCTIONS: You are going to work as if you are making a scarf, one long rectangular. When yarn is joined, if you are using knots, make sure they are crocheted all on the same side, which will become the inside of your garment.
Row 1: Make a chain of 53 stitches. HDC in 3rd ch from hook; hdc in every stitch on chain. You have 50 hdc(s). Ch 2 and turn.
Row 2: Repeat row 1 but, you will enter your hook in the back loop of each stitches. This will give you the ribbed effect. Do count your stitches once awhile to maintain the 50 stitches.
Rows 3 to 114 Repeat row 2. This gives you a rectangular, similar to a scarf. Now you are going to join each end of this rectangular together; loosely sl st together in the back or front of the st(s) to have the same ribbed effect. You end up with a “tube”. You still see a little difference in the sl st and this should become the inside and the back of your garment. Do not cut yarn.
Row 115 When you get to the bottom of the joining, not having cut the yarn, ch 1; make sure you are on the right side of your garment, you will be making the decoration edge (loops) of the tank.
Sc loosely around the “tube” by making a sc at ends of each row and a sc in the
joining of the rows. If you make it too tight, it will take away from the stretch of the ribbed effect. If you make too many sc(s) it will stretch too much. Join together at the “ch 1” with a sl st.
Row 116 Ch 6, do not turn; make a trc in 3rd sc; *ch 3, trc in 3rd sc*. This gives you the loops at the bottom of the garment. Repeat until you come to the beginning of same row and join with a sl st.
Row 117 Ch 1 (do not turn); make a row of sc(s) all around, again; not too tight. Join with a sl st, and cut the yarn leaving a 3 inch piece to work into the inside of your garment. Next you will be working on the top part of your garment.
Row 118 Tie your yarn at the joining of the tube, you will be repeating the sc(s) you did in row 115 (Sc loosely around the “tube” by making a sc at ends of each row and a sc in the joining of the rows. If you make it too tight, it will take away from the stretch of the ribbed effect. Join together at the “ch 1” with a sl st). Cut yarn, make sure it is knoted and work into the back of garment.
Next, divide the “tube” into 4 evenly; mark the places with a piece of different color yarn slipped into a stitch. There should be a piece at the back where you joined the tube (back of garment); a piece at the front and one on each side. You will now be making the straps for the shoulders.
SHOULDER STRAPS Ch 27 stitches
Row 1 HDC in 3rd ch from hook; hdc in each ch ending with 25 hdc(s). Ch 2, turn.
Row 2 You will be working in only the back loop of stitches. Repeat row 1. Ch 2, turn.
Row 3 Start decreasing. Hdc in 24 stitches. To decrease, when you come to the end of the row; there are 2 left to do, you skip the first and work in the last to get a nice even decrease. Ch 2, turn.
Row 4 Hdc in 23 stitches, ch 2, turn
Row 5 Repeat the rows decreasing, 22 decrease to 14 stitches. Then you will be working on the 14 stitches for another 19 rows. Now you will start increasing until you reach 25 hdc(s) again. Make 2 straps.
Join the straps to the garment by positioning at the marked sides of the garment, then towards the
front, count from the middle of the sides and position at 3rd chain from the side middle;
When knots are done to join yarn, make sure as you crochet that they are all on the same side of the rectangular. Work all knots and strands left into the garment on the wrong side of garment.
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Jun 06, 2013
Hilarious! But it is a cute top and can be adapted to whatever size a person needs. And, um, it should read "rectangle," not rectangular...
Jul 10, 2012
what is an areo 4 hook in letters? G, H?
marybethblus 80622 07
Jun 25, 2012
I think this is very Cute! I am going to make it for my Daughters and Granddaughters! I'm too old and fat for it but it would look Soooo Nice on them!!! Thank you for sharing this pattern with us!
Nov 24, 2011
They also give the note that they are only 5ft2in....this is just something they made and wanted to share. I personally am not of the "substantial arms" but I too would want to make this bigger to use as an over-vest or even a winter under-garmet. :)
Nov 04, 2011
Well, being of substantial arms, I would not wear this. but, if you can wear it, go for it! its cute. Perhaps a bit too revealing for my taste, but whatever!
Feb 26, 2011
This looks like something I would make up.
Jun 21, 2010
I have not made this pattern. But, after having read the instructions, I would guess it could be adapted for larger sizes by (1) increase the width of your starting "tube" to make longer; (2) increase the number of rows to make it wider; and (3) increase the middle section of rows for the sleeves.
Jun 20, 2010
THIS COMMENT IS FROM A PERSON WITH LARGE, FAT AND BIG ARMS I LIKE THE TERMINOLOGY THAT YOU USED WHEN YOU REFERRED TO SOMEONE WITH LARGE, FAT AND BIG ARMS. WHAT WAS IT SUBSTANTIAL ARMS THANKS YOU SKINNY ARMED PERSON!
Jun 18, 2010
Would you make this top a size larger by going up one size on the hook?
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