Scrap Yarn Crochet Slippers
These easy slippers, perfect for beginners are very warm and very comfortable. I've been making them for years, and have many family and friends that request a pair at least once a year if not more. These slippers can be made so that they cover only the ankle or past the knee and any length between. Senior citizens like the warm up to just below their knees.
These slippers end up oversize. Wearers often find this very comfortable, due to their toes not being squeezed. Sock stays up and with the 2 strands they last forever.
Use 2 strands at a time. A quick pattern of 4 pieces (2 socks and 2 toes), often done in a weekend, depending on the size desired.
- Size "F", "G", or "H" needle is recommended.
- Any amount and any color or type of yarn
- If you want slippers to MATCH, remember to use only about 1/2 of your yarn ball(s) so that you can use the same color in the second slipper. Also, if a toe and sock match, switch with the other toe and sock, so that they seem to be more of a pair.
- When changing a color, change only one at a time. This provides greater diversity in the color scheme. DO NOT CHANGE COLOR in change of center of the sock piece, but try to change closer to the edges. The wearer will walk on the middle portion of this piece.
- The 2 strands that you are crocheting with develop certain patterns and intensities. For a man, use darker colors together and masculine colors. For a woman, use a darker color with a lighter color for your 2 strands or both lighter colors. The lighter the brighter.
- Colors that you may not think look good together really do in this pattern. If you try to create a pattern, you may become frustrated. Let the colors flow and don't worry about how.
- The taller the sock, the tighter it will be to put on. Add an extra row(s) for allowance as needed.
To determine how tall you want the sock portion (the part that goes over your ankle and up your leg) to be, measure from back of heel up the back of leg to the desired height. Double that measurement--that will be the length of the piece you'll be crocheting and will determine how many chain stitches to make. (As an example, If I want my slippers to extend 2 inches above my ankle, I chain 80 + 3 for the turning chain.)
The width of the piece, from back of heel to arch, will be determined by how many rows you work. Typically, I work 9 rows, but adjust this number as needed.
Row 1: Using 2 STRANDS of yarn, leave a foot long or longer tail (Tail A) and chain the desired length as explained above.
Row 2-9 (or as needed): Turn and double-crochet (dc) each row, adding 3 chain for turning. Tie off, leaving a tail as long as the rectangle (Tail B). This sock piece will cover your ankle/calf from back of heel to arch, with the fold at the bottom of your foot, a seam in the back and front of your ankle, and the short edges at the top of the sock.
Repeat for second foot.
Measure bottom of foot, from heel to longest toe(s), for 'toe' part of slipper. This toe section will be like a cap, worked in the round. The last row will meet up with the front edge of the sock portion, just in front of your ankle.
Chain 5, st into 1st chain to form a ring.
Row 1: Chain 3, and then double crochet 12 stitches through the center of circle. Slip stitch into 1st stitch, chain 3.
Row 2: double crochet 2 x in each stitch, making 24 stitches around.
Slip stitch into 1st stitch, chain 3.
Row 3: double crochet 2 x in 1st stitch. double crochet 1 x in next
2 stitches. double crochet in 4th stitch 2x. Follow this count around to last stitch. Slip stitch into 1st stitch, chain 3.
Row 4: double crochet 2x in 1st stitch. double crochet 1x in next 9 stitches. Follow this count around to last stitch. Slip stitch into 1st stitch, chain 3.
If toes fit into this crocheted "toe cap" without causing crowding, go to row 5. If toes are crowded, repeat Row 4.
Rows 5-8: double crochet in 1st stitch, and 1x in each stitch around to last stitch. Slip stitch into 1st stitch. Chain 3.
Adjust as necessary - a short foot may only need 8 rows, or a long foot may need 10 rows.
Row 9 (last row): Work as row 5, but at the end, tie off, leaving a tail that is longer than the circumference of the toe piece (Tail C).
Repeat for second foot.
PUT IT ALL TOGETHER
- Using Tail A, put first stitch and last stitch of the foundation chain row together, and pull tail through. This will hold the top back of the slipper together; edges should meet but not ov. Pulling the tail around the next stitch, continue stitching sides together until you reach the fold. Separate the ends and pull to the inside through different stitches but close enough not to cause gap. Tie off, weave through. Cut.
- Turn the 'Toe' inside out, and slip it inside the sock part so the tip of the toe is pointed toward the heel (which you just stitched closed). Align the last row of the sock part and the last row of the toe section, having Tail C (the tail from the toe section) positioned at the folded edge of the sock part. Separate the 2 strands and begin stitching the two edges together, around stitch after stitch as before. Use 1 strand to work the right side up to the top of the toe and the other for the left side. Strands will meet at the top of the toe. Pull through.
- At the top of the sock (front of the sock portion), pull Tail B through the first stitch of the other side of the sock, and continue stitching each stitch together as you did for the back of the slipper until you meet where the toe is added. Pull all tails (4 strands) through to the inside, and tie off with each other.
- Push toe out to front.
- Do not close front side of sock, allowing for fold over. This may be an option for taller 'socks', and a long chain piece added as laces, hand stitch Velcro pieces so the sock can be wrapped around. For this you may need to add an extra row.
- Have fun with this pattern. Each pair can be unique for each wearer.
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