Knit Ballet Slippers

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Knit Ballet Slippers

Here's a free pattern for knit slippers that are a little bit different. These knit ballet slippers lace up the leg like a real ballet slipper, giving you that ballerina look even when you're just hanging around the house.

Knit Ballet Slippers

SIZES: Adult shoe sizes Small 4-6 (Medium 7-9; Large 10-12)

 

 

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS: Foot length from heel to toe: 7 ¾ (9, 10 ¼)”/19.5 (23, 26)cm + 1”/2.5cm ease

 

 

MATERIALS:

  • Caron International’s Party (3oz/85g, 171yds/156m):
  • Shown in: Fuschia Sparkle #0002 (MC) and #0005 Royal Sparkle (CC), 3oz/85g each
  • One pair size U.S. 8 (5mm) needles or size to obtain gauge
  • One set of four size U.S. 8 (5mm) double-pointed needles (dpns)
  • Crochet hook size U.S. H-8 (5mm)
  • Three bobbin holders
  • Yarn needle

 

 

GAUGE: In St st, using size U.S. 8 (5mm) needles, 18 sts and 22 rows = 4”/10cm

 

 

STITCHES USED:

  • 1x1 rib
  • Stockinette Stitch

 

 

SPECIAL TERMS:

pu-PB = Pick up in st below next left needle st (for short row turning this picked up st will appear to be emerging from the same st below the next true LN st)

s-LN = Slip st just worked back to left needle (for short row turning)

Lacing chain = With CC, (CO 1, *yo, BO; rep from *.)

 

 

NOTES:

  • Ballet style slippers are worked from short row heel to short row toe back and forth on double-pointed needles.
  • On the chart, the “O’s” are each worked in CC from 40” of yarn on bobbins. The MC background is stranded across the back of each “O”. Each “O” is finished on the inside by weaving the CC tail leftover into the MC strands on the WS and tails are hidden between the woven and RS layers.
  • Without tying off the yarn, 1x1 ribbing is picked up onto 3 needles and worked in the round.
  • After ribbing is bound off an optional finishing technique is described, using the crochet hook, which closes short row eyelet holes as it strengthens the heel and toe.

 

 

SLIPPERS

Cut nine 40” lengths of CC and wind to bobbin for complete “O’s” each sock

Cut two 30” lengths of CC and wind to bobbin for half “O’s” each sock

With MC and straight needles, CO 24 sts. Beg at back of short row heel:

Row 1: P 24.

Work 2 half “O’s”. Note: While working “O’s” keep bobbins and MC strands on WS of work. When bringing up a bobbin bring it over the last MC strand.

Row 2: K5 MC; with new bobbin k6 CC, k2 MC; with new bobbin k6 CC, k2 MC, pu-PB, s-LN, turn (with 4 sts on needle).

Row 3: P3 MC, p4 CC, p4 MC, p4 CC, p3 MC, pu-PB, s-LN, turn (with 4 sts on needle).

Row 4: K4 MC, k2 CC, k6 MC, k2 CC, k3 MC, pu-PB, s-LN, turn (with 6 sts on needle).

2 half “O’s” are complete. Note: When “O’s” are completed, do not cut the bobbin tails. This will be used later in finishing.

Row 5: P16 MC, pu-PB, s-LN, turn (with 6 sts on needle).

Row 6: K15 MC, pu-PB, s-LN, turn (with 8 sts on needle).

Work 1 “O” at back of heel.

Row 7: P6 MC, with new bobbin p2 CC, p6 MC, pu-PB, s-LN, turn (with 8 sts on needle).

Row 8: K5 MC, k4 CC, k4 MC, pu-PB, s-LN, turn (with 10 sts on needle).

Row 9: P3 MC, p6 CC, p3 MC, pu-PB, s-LN, turn (with 10 sts on needle).

Row 10: K3 MC, k6 CC, k2 MC, pu-PB, s-LN, turn (with 12 sts on needle).

Row 11: P3 MC, p4 CC, p3 MC, pu-PB, s-LN, turn (with 12 sts on needle).

Now turn the short row heel from the back of heel to the bottom of heel.

Row 12: K4 MC, k2 CC, k4 MC, k2tog, s-LN, turn (with 11 sts on needle).

1 “O” is complete.

Row 13: P10 MC, p2tog, s-LN, turn (with 11 sts on needle).

Row 14: K11 MC, k2tog, s-LN, turn (with 9 sts on needle).

Row 15: P12 MC, p2tog, s-LN, turn (with 9 sts on needle).

Row 16: K13 MC, k2tog, s-LN, turn (with 7 sts on needle).

Work 2 “O’s” across bottom of heel.

Row 17: P2 MC, p2 with new CC, p6 MC, p2 with new CC, p2 MC, p2tog, s-LN, turn (with 7 sts on needle).

Row 18: K1 MC, k4 CC, k4 MC, k4 CC, k2 MC, k2tog, s-LN, turn (with 5 sts on needle).

Row 19: P1 MC, p6 CC, p2 MC, p6 CC, p1 MC, p2tog, s-LN, turn (with 5 sts on needle).

Row 20: K1 MC, k6 CC, k2 MC, k6 CC, k2 MC, k2tog, s-LN, turn (with 3 sts on needle).

Row 21: P3 MC, p4 CC, p4 MC, p4 CC, p3 MC, p2tog, s-LN, turn (with 3 sts on).

Row 22: K4 MC, k2 CC, k6 MC, k2 CC, k7 MC (heel is complete on this end).

Row 23: P24 MC (heel is complete on this end)

Two “O’s” are complete.

Work 1 (3, 5) rows in MC in St st.

Work 3 “O’s” across bottom of foot.

Foot Length Bottom:

FLB 1: *P3 MC, with new bobbin p2 CC, p3 MC; rep from * 3 times in all.

FLB 2: *K2 MC, k4 CC, k2 MC; rep from * 2 times in more.

FLB 3: *P1 MC, p6 CC, p1 MC; rep from * 2 times in more.

FLB 4: *K1 MC, k6 CC, k1 MC; rep from 2 times in more.

FLB 5: *P2 MC, p4 CC, p2 MC; rep from * 2 times in more.

FLB 6: *K3 MC, k2 CC, k3 MC; rep from 2 times in more.

Three “O’s” are complete.

Work 2 (4, 6) rows in MC in St st.

Work 2 “O’s” across bottom of foot.

FLB 7: P4 MC, *p3 MC, p2 CC, p3 MC; rep from * once more, p4 MC.

FLB 8: K4 MC, *k2 MC, k4 CC, k2 MC; rep from * once more, k4 MC.

FLB 9: P4 MC, *p1 MC, p6 CC, p1 MC; rep from * once more, p 4 MC.

FLB 10: K4 MC, *k1 MC, k6 CC, k1 MC; rep from * once more, k4 MC.

FLB 11: P4 MC, *p2 MC, p4 CC, p2 MC; rep from * once more, p4 MC.

FLB 12: K4 MC, *k3 MC, k2 CC, k3 MC; rep from * once more, k4 MC.

Two “O’s” are complete.

Work 2 (4, 6) rows in MC in St st.

Toe Rows:

Work 1 “O” at bottom of toe.

T-Row 1: P11 MC, p2 with new CC, p8 MC, pu-PB, s-LN, turn (with 4 sts on needle).

T-Row 2: K7 MC, k4 CC, k7 MC, pu-PB, s-LN, turn (with 4 sts on needle).

T-Row 3: P6 MC, p6 CC, p5 MC, pu-PB, s-LN, turn (with 6 sts on needle).

T-Row 4: K5 MC, k6 CC, k5 MC, pu-PB, s-LN, turn (with 6 sts on needle).

T-Row 5: P6 MC, p4 CC, p5 MC, pu-PB, s-LN, turn (with 8 sts on needle).

T-Row 6: K6 MC, k2 CC, k6 MC, pu-PB, s-LN, turn (with 8 sts on needle).

1 “O” is complete. The remainder is worked in the MC.

T-Row 7: P13, pu-PB, s-LN, turn (with 10 sts on needle).

T-Row 8: K12, pu-PB, s-LN, turn (with 10 sts on needle).

T-Row 9: P11, pu-PB, s-LN, turn (with 12 sts on needle).

T-Row 10: K10, pu-PB, s-LN, turn (with 12 sts on needle).

Bottom of toe is complete. Now turn to work the top of the toe in short rows.

T-Row 11:P10, p2tog, s-LN, turn (with 11 sts on needle).

T-Row 12: K10, k2tog, s-LN, turn (with 11 sts on needle).

T-Row 13: P11, p2tog, s-LN, turn (with 9 sts on needle).

Begin to contour the center front toe.

T-Row 14: K5, k2tog, k 5, k2tog, s-LN, turn (with 9 sts on needle).

T-Row 15: P12, p2tog, s-LN, turn (with 7 sts on needle).

T-Rows 16, 18, and 20: K5, slip next st knitwise, k2tog, BO (=minus 2 sts), k 5, k2tog, s-LN, turn [with 7 (5, 3) sts on needle].

T-Row 17 and 19: P12, p2tog, s-LN (with 5, then 3 sts on needle).

T-Row 21: P14.

Do not tie off yarn.

Work 1x1 ribbed finishing around foot opening with 4 dpns as follows:

Needle #1: Slip 1 st purlwise, k 6, slip next st knitwise, k2tog, BO (=minus 2 sts), k 7 = 15 front Center Front Toe sts;

Needle #2: Skip 1st row, pick up 1 st in right side of each Foot Length row from toe to heel = 17 (23, 29) right side sts, pick up 12 sts in beg CO at back of right side of heel = 12 (of 24) Heel sts;

Needle #3: Pick up next 12 sts in beg CO at back of left side of heel = 12 (of 24) Heel sts, pick up 1 st in left side of each Foot Length row from heel to toe, do not pick up 1 in last side of row before sts on needle #1 = 17 (23, 29) Left Side sts.

Ribbing at foot opening =73 (85, 97) sts before working center back lacing loop.

Make back of heel loop for upper lacing.

Beg with 1st st on Needle #1: *(K 1, p 1) 22 (25, 28) times to 2 center back sts.

Make loop: *CO 1, BO; rep from * 4 times more; purl next st, BO; *(k1, p1) 14 (17, 20) times =18(24, 30) foot opening sts.

Work 1 (2, 3) more rows of 1x1 rib for S (M, L). BO sts around. Pick up 1 st in 1st BO st, BO. If working the optional reinforcement to close short row gaps, do not tie off.

 

Optional reinforcement for toe and heel

Continue from rib finish by sliding the last BO loop to the hook, work ch st: yo, pull yo through loop on hook, insert hook at WS through back of nearest st, work slip st: insert hook into backside of st, yo, pull through st and loop on hook, work 1 more ch and 1 more slip st. This brings the working yarn to the first eyelet gap in the left side of the toe. Temporarily remove hook from loop on hook.

1. With hook now on RS of slipper and working yarn remaining on WS: Insert hook into next short row gap, pull up loop, insert into turning knit st between gaps, yo on WS, pull yo through st and loop on hook. Rep this in all gaps to the solid knit sts at center front toe. Temporarily remove hook from loop on hook. Pull loop to WS.

2. With hook and working yarn on WS of slipper: Insert hook into each purl bump work slip st, across to opposite side toe short row gaps and rep 1.

3. .Pull loop on hook to WS as before and slip st in every other st along side (at base of picked up rib sts) until you reach the heel gaps. Pull loop on hook to RS.

Rep steps 1, 2, and 3 to reinforce the heel and turning row gaps; tie off to inside.

Finish WS of each “O”

Thread tail of CC (leftover from bobbins) to yarn needle and weave through MC strands in 5 woven rows. Tie off. Pull beg and ending tails of CC between RS “O” and woven layer to conceal ends.

For foot opening drawstring tie make a ch in MC of 75 (80, 85) sts. Weave this tie through ribbing beg and ending before foot opening BO at the center back heel.

For tie lacing at back of heel make a chain in CC of 240 (250, 260) sts. Thread this tie lace midway through loop on back of heel. This tie lacing may be criss-crossed up the calve to the knee and tied or wrapped several times around the ankle and tied in a bow.

 

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