sewing tutorial Archives

National Sewing Month 2013: Watermelon Pencil Case Tutorial from Creating My Way To Success

September 27, 2013 by AllFreeSewing 19 Comments

It’s Day Twenty-Seven of National Sewing Month! Too see the daily blog posts, projects of the day, and more National Sewing Month details, click here.

Hi – I’m Jill from Creating my way to Success and I’m thrilled to be here for National Sewing Month.

Today I want to show you how to make this very cute watermelon pencil case. My girls love pencil cases and it seems you can never have too many!

So here goes. You’ll need scraps of red, white and green fabric, a zip, some black buttons and some paper and pencil.

To make your pattern – simply draw a slice of watermelon. Don’t worry about getting it perfect – fruits are not all exactly the same size and shape! Here’s mine on an A4 sheet of paper:

You cut out this whole slice you have drawn and use it as the pattern to cut your inside fabric – two pieces. Remember for each piece you cut – cut a little wider than your pattern to allow for the seams:

To cut the pieces for the outside of the pencil case, cut along the lines of your pattern for the red, white and green parts to be separate. Then use these 3 pattern pieces to cut your colored pieces of fabric for the outside of your pencil case – again remembering to cut wider than your pattern piece to allow for seams. Cut two of each color.

Now you need to pin then sew each colored piece together in turn. Remember to pin the right sides of the fabric together – and use plenty of pins to keep the curves in line!

To add the seeds to your watermelon slice – simply stitch on some black buttons in random spaces. Remember to do this for both sides of the pencil case!

The Zip

My zip was about 24cm (9″) long. You can use a longer or shorter one, and use scrap fabric to cover both ends to make it the same width as your watermelon slice. Here’s how:

Take rectangular scraps of whichever fabric you like – I chose my inner red fabric. Place 2 pieces right sides together on either side of the zip, pinning where you want the zip to end. Stitch these pieces in place, and trim the very end of the zip off.

Repeat this with the other end of the zip – then trim the edges of the fabric in line with the zip.

Putting it all together

Lay one side of your watermelon slice face up. Place your zip face down on top, then one of your inner fabric pieces right sides down on top of that. Pin them using your zipper foot stitch close to the zip teeth.

To prevent the fabric from catching in the zip, open out the fabrics and pull back from the zip. Top-stitch along the edge of the zip.

Now the other half of the watermelon slice. Place your other inner fabric piece face up. Then the part with the attached zip face up on top. Finally your other watermelon slice face down on the very top – face down. Pin and stitch with your zipper foot, and once again pull the fabric back from the zip and top-stitch the other side.

Now open out your pencil case with the zip in the middle. Make sure the zip is open. Then flip over fabrics so you have both inner fabrics on one side and both outer fabrics on the other side. Pin these pieces together around the curved edges. Leave a gap of a few inches on the inner fabric side. You’ll need this to turn the pencil case out.

Stitch all the way around the edges – just leaving the gap for turning out. Turn the pencil case right sides out, pin, and stitch the opening closed.

Done! Congratulations, you’ve made a cute watermelon pencil case!

I hope you liked this tutorial. There are heaps more on my blog so please do come and visit me at

Creating my way to Success.

Happy National Sewing month to all!

Do you still use a pencil case – even if you aren’t in school?

Scrappy Fabric Baskets from Threading My Way: National Sewing Month 2013

September 21, 2013 by AllFreeSewing 82 Comments

It’s Day Twenty-One of National Sewing Month! Too see the daily blog posts, projects of the day, and more National Sewing Month details, click here.

Hi, Pam here from Threading My Way. I’m thrilled to be joining in with National Sewing Month.

Today I’m going to show you how to make your own Scrappy Fabric Basket, using small pieces of fabric from your stash. Measuring 6.5″ x 4.5″ x 4″ (16.5 cm x 11.5 cm x 10 cm), this handy sized basket is sturdy enough to stand up by itself. Let’s get started with the tutorial.

Materials:

20 pieces – 11 inches x 2 inches (28 cm x 5 cm) – fabric strips for the exterior of the basket.
2 pieces – 9 inches x 9 inches (23 cm x 23 cm) – contrast color for the lining
2 pieces – 9 inches x 9 inches (23 cm x 23 cm) – light weight iron-on interfacing
2 pieces – 9 inches x 9 inches (23 cm x 23 cm) – medium to heavy weight, woven, sew-in interfacing

The fabric strips can be any combination of prints. I used quilting cotton. You may not use all the strips.

I like the combination of the light weight iron-on interfacing and the medium to heavy weight, woven, sew-in interfacing. This produces a basket that will stand up by itself, without being bulky to sew. You could substitute this with different weight interfacing, fleece or batting. It all depends on the look you are after and what you are used to sewing with.

Instructions:

All seams are 3/8″ (1 cm), unless otherwise indicated.

Use a NON steam setting for pressing.

Back-stitch at the beginning and ending of seams. Arrange fabric strips:

Lay 10 fabric strips side by side for the front and the same for the back.
Play with the strips until you are happy with the arrangement.

Sew fabric strips together:

Sew the fabric strips together, at random angles, making sure the seams are straight as you sew. The long edges of the fabric will not be level.

Lay the 2nd strip on the 1st strip, right sides together and at an angle, beginning in the left corner. Line up your presser foot with the top fabric and sew.

Step 1: place top fabric at an angle
Trim excess fabric, before sewing the next seam.

Step 2: trim excess fabric from seam
Lay the 3rd strip on the 2nd strip, right sides together and at an angle, beginning in the right corner.

Step 3: place next fabric at a different angle
Continue sewing the strips, alternating the direction of the angles and varying the degree, until all the strips are sewn. You may find you only need 9 strips per side. It all depends on how you have placed the fabrics.

Press seams open:

When all strips are sewn for both front and back, press the seams open.
Trim the sewn strips into a square, 9 inches x 9 inches (23 cm x 23 cm)

Step 2: trim into a square
Sew down each side of both squares, 1/8 inch (3 mm) from the edge of the fabric. This will secure the seams you have just cut.

Step 3: secure seams by sewing along the sides

Top-stitch:

Set stitch length to slightly longer than normal. I set mine to 2.8.
Top-stitch on either side of each seam, sewing 1/8 inch (3 mm) from the seam.

Attach interfacing:

Follow manufacturer’s directions to fuse the iron-on interfacing to the wrong side of each square. I always cut iron-on interfacing a fraction smaller than the fabric and I place a cloth under the iron. This prevents any glue getting on the iron.

Step 1: iron-on interfacing
Attach the woven, sew-in interfacing, to the wrong side of each square, by sewing around all 4 edges, 1/8 inch (3 mm) from the edges. Sew with the interfacing uppermost.

Step 2: sew-in interfacing

Exterior of basket – sew front to back:

With right sides together, sew down one side, stopping with the needle in the down position 3/8″ (1 cm) from the bottom edge.
Lift the presser foot and turn the fabric 90º.
Lower the presser foot and sew across the bottom, stopping with the needle in the down position 3/8″ (1 cm) from the side edge.
Lift the presser foot and turn the fabric 90º.
Lower the presser foot and sew the 2nd side.
Neaten the edges by zig-zagging. Do NOT zig-zag the seams together. Sew them separately.
Press seams open.

Making the box corner:

Measure 2 inches (5 cm) from the bottom corner seam in both directions. (Measure from the seam. Don’t measure from the edge of the fabric.)
Put a mark to show where 2 inches (5 cm) is. You will have four marks, all 2 inches (5 cm) from the bottom corners.

Steps 1 & 2: measure 2″ from corner
Pull out the sides of your basket.
Place one seam on top of the other seam.
Put a pin through the top mark. If the pin comes out through the mark on the other side, your boxed corner will line up.

Step 5: check that the marks are lined up
If the pin is not coming out through the mark on the other side, reposition the fabric until it does.
Make sure the seams are open.
Holding the fabric in place, take the pin out and re-pin away from the marks.
With a ruler, draw a line across the fabric, at right angles to the seam and through the mark you made.

Steps 8 & 9: rule a line to sew along
Remove the pin. If you would like, hand sew to hold in place.

Steps 10 & 11: remove pin and sew
Sew across the line. I sew a couple of times for reinforcement.
Cut the fabric and neaten.

Step 12: cut fabric and neaten
Repeat for the other side.
Turn the exterior right side out and press.

Sewing the lining:

The two lining pieces are joined in the same way as the exterior fabric, except that a 3 inch (8 cm) gap is left in the bottom seam, to allow turning later on.

With right sides together, sew down one side, stopping with the needle in the down position 3/8″ (1cm) from the bottom edge.
Lift the presser foot and turn the fabric 90º.
Lower the presser foot and sew 2.5 inches (7 cm) across the bottom. Stop and back-stitch.
Leave a gap and begin sewing 2.5 inches (7 cm) from the 2nd corner. Back-stitch as you start sewing. Stop with the needle in the down position 3/8 inch (1 cm) from the side edge.
Lift the presser foot and turn the fabric 90º.
Lower the presser foot and sew the 2nd side.
Neaten the edges by zig-zagging. Do NOT zig-zag the seams together. Sew them separately.
Press seams open.
Make boxed corners as per the exterior of the basket.
Leave the lining wrong side out.

Attach the lining to the outside of the basket:

Place the exterior inside the lining. IE: the right side of the exterior is next to the right side of the lining.

Step 1: place exterior inside lining and line up top edges
Line up the top edges of the lining and the exterior.
Match the seams on either side, making sure the seams are open.
Baste (hand sew) the top edges of the lining and the exterior to hold in place.
Sew a 3/8 inch (1cm) seam to join the top edges of the lining and the exterior.
Neaten the seam.

Steps 5 & 6: sew seam and neaten

Turn the exterior right side out:

Put your fingers through the hole in the bottom of the lining.
Gently pull the exterior out through the lining.
Close the gap in the lining by sewing a row of stitching near to the edge.

Finishing off:

Push the lining back into the basket.
Press the top edge of the basket.
Top-stitch 1/8inch (3 mm) from the edge, around the top of the basket.

You have finished your fabric basket. These little baskets don’t take long to whip up. You could easily make one in an evening. The most time consuming part is top-stitching the strips.

I made four baskets, each with a particular person in mind, although I’m tempted to keep just one. I think my favorite is the red… love the combination of checks and polka dots, teamed with Alexander Henry’s Willow Berries.

Then again, the yellow/blue combo of stripes and geometric shapes, Oh Boy! by David Walker, is rather striking.

Although the lining on the floral, blue basket appears to be pieced, it’s actually not. However, I deliberately chose it because it looked like patchwork. In fact, the lining could be two coordinating prints as I’ve done in the pink/maroon basket, although, it’s a little hard to see. I just didn’t have enough of any one fabric, which doesn’t matter, as it works well.

Now all you have to do is decide what to put into your basket.

Enjoy the rest of National Sewing Month. See you over at Threading My Way.

… Pam

What would you put in this Scrappy Fabric Basket?

National Sewing Month 2013: Sewing a New Wardrobe on a Budget

September 20, 2013 by AllFreeSewing 32 Comments

It’s Day Twenty of National Sewing Month! Too see the daily blog posts, projects of the day, and more National Sewing Month details, click here.

An updated wardrobe is always on the mind, but it might not always be in the budget. New clothes and accessories can be quite pricey, and no matter how stylish they are, the cost might not be worth it. As a sewist, though, you don’t have to find yourself subject to retail sticker prices when you can simply make your own clothes. Rather than spending inordinate amounts of money on designer clothes, you can use any number of free sewing patterns to find ideas for refashioning clothes.

Check out the free tutorials below for several fashionable sewing projects. Whether you’re looking for instructions on how to refashion tops, bottoms, dresses, or clothes for kids, there’s a free sewing pattern for you. Explore all of these ideas to find the clothing refashion project that’s just right for your needs.

How to Refashion Tops

You don’t have to set foot in the department store to find your next fabulous top. Learn how to refashion tops with these free sewing tutorials. You’ll love how much you can create, and you’ll love how low-budget all of these projects are to sew. With so many free patterns, there’s no need for you to ever sacrifice style to save money.

15 Minute Lacy Blazer

DIY Basketweave Hoodie Tutorial

Draped Color Block Tee

Easy Applique Star Tee

Easy Sequined Pocket

Sewn with Love Appliqued Tee

Trendy Sweatshirt Refashion

How to Refashion Bottoms

You can sew eye-catching bottoms on a budget using any of these free sewing tutorials. Low-budget, easy sewing projects are just what you need to give your wardrobe a boost on a dime. When money is no longer a factor, the only big question you really have to answer is “What will I sew first?!”

20 Minute Shirt to Skirt

Making a Skirt from a Dress

Ready for Summer Denim Refashion

Ruffled Pant Cuffs

Very Easy Overalls Refashion

How to Make Refashioned Dresses

Walking away from fabulous dresses because they cost too much can be a heart-wrenching experience. Say goodbye to those traumatic moments by getting out your sewing machine and your favorite clothes that need a new life. Check out these sewing tutorials to learn how to refashion clothes you already have into fashionable dresses.

Skirt to Classic Halter Dress

Skirt to Dress Refashion

Upcycling Clothes for Kids

With the rate at which kids grow, keeping them clothed can get quite costly. Save some dough on your kids’ clothes by learning how to refashion garments you already have. Check out any of these free sewing tutorials for ideas on how to make refashioned clothes for your kids. With these easy projects, keeping your little ones high fashion will be a breeze.

Clean Cut-Off-Shorts for Boys

Hoodie Into Child’s Cowl Neck Pullover

Man’s Shirt to Child’s Dress Refashion

Refashion Sweater for Boys

Sweet and Simple Bow Top

Wonderful Tee Shirt Onesie

Why do you think refashioning is so popular with younger sewers?

Sew a Tote With Anna from Charmed Liebling: National Sewing Month 2013

September 10, 2013 by AllFreeSewing 300 Comments

It’s Day Ten of National Sewing Month! Too see the daily blog posts, projects of the day, and more National Sewing Month details, click here.

Today’s post is courtesy of Anna from charmed Liebling. Check out Anna’s AllFreeSewing designer profile here.

Fabulous Farmer’s Market Tote:

Go shopping at the farmers market in style! This bag holds all the groceries you can carry. There is a divider inside the bag to keep everything organized. The hidden slip pocket on the front side of the bag is perfect to fit your wallet, phone and keys. This bag works well with laminated cotton or oilcloth, but you could also use home decor fabric or just simply lightweight quilting fabric. If you do, I recommend interfacing the exterior fabric pieces as stated below in the instructions.

All seam allowances are ½” unless otherwise stated. All measurements given are height x width. Please read all instructions before you begin.

You need:

– Exterior fabric: 1 1/8 yd (44″ width)

– Lining fabric: 1 yd (44″ width)

– 1 piece of hook and loop tape (self-adhesive or sew-on): 1”

Helpful hints:

– I made this tote completely out of laminated cotton. If you decide to do so too, please be careful when ironing parts of your fabric while sewing. I usually place a kitchen towel on top of the fabric, which is folded twice. I like to sprinkle the towel a little bit with water and used less steam than usual. I also don’t use the highest setting of the iron and I don’t press too long at the same spot.

– I also recommend using sewing clips instead of pins as they won’t leave holes in your laminated cotton or oilcloth.

Cut from:

Exterior fabric:

– (2x) 16″ x 12.75” – main body

– (2x) 16″ x 9” – side panel

– (1x) 9″ x 12.75” – bottom panel

– (1x) 10″ x 21” – interior divider

– (2x) 29″ x 5.5” – strap

Lining fabric:

– (2x) 16″ x 12.75” – main body

– (2x) 16″ x 9” – side panel

– (1x) 9″ x 12.75” – bottom panel

– (1x) 10″ x 21” – interior divider

– (2x) 8″ x 9” – slip pocket

I didn’t use any interfacing on this tote since I used laminated cotton throughout and intended a slouchy look. If you use lightweight cotton fabric you might want to interface parts of your tote. In this case, cut the following pieces from fusible interfacing:

– (2x) 16″ x 12.75” – main body

– (2x) 16″ x 9” – side panel

– (1x) 9″ x 12.75” – bottom panel

If you don’t need to fold your tote when not using it, you may also think about interfacing the interior divider with heavy stabilizer. In this case cut the following piece from heavy stabilizer:

– (1x) 10″ x 21” – interior divider

Interface the wrong sides of the exterior parts of your tote.

Instructions:

a) Make the straps

– Fold one of your strap fabric pieces in half lengthwise, with the wrong sides together and press. Open up again and fold both long edges towards the middle crease and press again.

– Now fold lengthwise again, matching the long folded edges and press again. Topstitch along both long edges, approx. 3 mm (1/8”) from the edges.

Repeat the folding and stitching with the second strap fabric piece.

– Place one of the straps onto one of the exterior main body panels. The outer edges of the strap should be placed 2.5” in from the side edges of the bag. The loop of the strap should face to the bottom and the raw edges of both main body panel and straps should be aligned. Pin in place and baste the strap end to the main body using a ¼” seam allowance.

– Repeat for the other strap and the other main body panel.

b) Prepare the slip pocket

– Place the hook part of your piece of hook and loop tape onto the right side of one of the slip pocket pieces. It should be positioned in the center and 1” down from the top edge. Tape it down or sew it onto the fabric (depending on what kind of hook and loop tape you are using).

– Repeat with the loop part of the hook and loop tape and the other slip pocket piece.

– Take one of the slip pocket pieces and put it onto one of the exterior main body panels, right sides together. It should be positioned centered on the main body panel and the top edges of both fabric pieces should be aligned. (Since you already attached the straps to the exterior main body fabric panels, your slip pocket will partially cover the straps).

– Pin in place and stitch along the top edge using a 1/4” seam allowance, starting and stopping 1/2” from the outer edges of the slip pocket fabric piece.

– Repeat the previous step with the second slip pocket fabric piece and one of the lining main body panels.

– Set both main body panels aside.

c) Make the interior divider

– Take both of your interior divider pieces and put them right sides together. Pin in place and stitch along both long edges.

– Turn right side out and press. Top-stitch along both long edges using a 1/4” seam allowance.

– On both the top and the bottom edge, measure and mark 6” in from the side edges. Fold the divider towards what will be the wrong (= inner) side of the divider.

– Top-stitch along the folded edge using a 1/4” seam allowance.

– Repeat the 6” markings, folding and topstitching on the other side of the divider.

This is what you should have after folding and top-stitching along both folds:

– Take one of the lining main body side panels and place it right side up. Put your divider right (= outer) side up onto the side panel. Match the side edges of both fabric pieces and position the divider approx. 1” up from the bottom edge of the lining side panel. Pin the divider in place and stitch along the side edges using a 1/4” seam allowance.

This is what you should have after stitching both side seams of the divider to the lining side panel:

– On the lining main body panel with the slip pocket piece attached, fold the slip pocket over so that the wrong sides of both slip pocket and main body panel are now touching. Topstitch along the upper edge of the slip pocket, starting and stopping 1/2″ from the outer edges.

– Repeat the previous step with the other slip pocket piece on the exterior main body panel.

d) Assemble the bag lining:

Take one of the lining main body panels and place it right side up. Take one of your lining side panels and put it on one of the side edges of the main body panel, right sides together, the edges of both pieces should be aligned. Pin in place and stitch along the edge, but stop 1/2″ up from the bottom end (this 1/2″ is important later, when you are going to sew the bottom panel onto the bag).

– Repeat with the second side panel and the other edge of the main panel (when stitching the side panel with the divider attached, make sure to fold the divider together so it won’t get caught in the stitching).

– Take your second main panel and repeat the previous steps.

On the picture above you can see one of the lining main body panels with the two lining side panels (one of them includes the interior divider) already attached. You can also see how the side seam stops about 1/2″ from the bottom edge.

– Place the bottom panel with its four edges onto the bottom edges of the bag, right sides together. Pin in place and stitch along the first edge, starting and stopping 1/2” from the edge. Since you left the seam open by 1/2″ when sewing the side panels to the main body panels, you should be able to have your bottom panel seams start and stop exactly at the end of these seams (see on the next picture – note that I chose exterior fabric for the bottom panel of my bag lining).

This is what your bag lining should look like on the inside after stitching all the pieces together:

e) Make the bag exterior:

– Repeat step d) to assemble the bag exterior.

f) Finish the slip pocket:

– Place your two slip pocket fabric pieces right sides together (since they are already attached to the exterior and lining main body you will have to bend those parts out of the way for this step). Pin in place and stitch around the three edges of the slip pocket. Make sure to start and stop the stitching right beneath the topstitching of the top edge of the slip pocket pieces.

g) Assemble the bag:

– Due to the finished slip pocket, the bag exterior and the bag lining are already attached to each other. The bag exterior should be right side out, the bag lining wrong side out. Put the bag lining into the exterior. The slip pocket will be hidden between the layers. Make sure to fit the lining correctly into the exterior. Match the side seams and flatten the bottom panels, so that the lining sits snug inside the bag.

– Fold down the seam allowance of the top edges of both exterior and lining towards the inside. Pin in place and stitch along the top edge using a 1/4” seam allowance. Start and stop right before you reach the slip pocket.

Congratulations, your fabulous farmers’ market tote is finished!

Check out Anna’s Pattern Shop to see more lovely bags!

Do you use reusable totes at the grocery store, or disposable bags?

Invisible Zippers With Deby Coles: National Sewing Month 2013

September 3, 2013 by AllFreeSewing 44 Comments

It’s Day Three of National Sewing Month! Too see the daily blog posts, projects of the day, and more National Sewing Month details, click here.

Hello, I’m Deby from So Sew Easy. I’m fairly new to sewing and learning new techniques all the time, so I was delighted to be asked to share with you as part of the National Sewing Month series.

On my blog, I mostly sew clothes for myself and one of the sewing techniques that took me a while to master was sewing an invisible zipper. However hard I tried to work it out, more often than not I would end up putting either one or even both sides in the wrong way. But now that I have this mastered, the invisible zipper has become one of my favorite techniques because it is so easy to do, yet provides such a high level of finish.

Follow through as I show you how I sew an invisible zipper in this video tutorial.

Did you wonder what the sound was in the background? Well, I’m lucky enough to live in the glorious Cayman Islands, and that was the sound of the Caribbean Sea lapping at the beach outside my sewing room window!

If you prefer a photo tutorial, you can find a written step by step with photos over on the site as part of the beginners Sew A Skirt series at so-sew-easy.com. Now you have the zipper sorted, you might want to follow along the tutorial series and sew a custom-fit lined skirt.

Thanks for watching, I hope you found this useful and picked up some tips, and won’t keep sewing in your zippers the wrong way round like I did!

And thank you to the FaveCrafts Blog for having me over today to say hello.

Authored by: Deby at So Sew Easy

What is the hardest sewing technique you’ve ever had to learn?

Sewing the Spectrum: Easy Sewing Projects in Every Color of the Rainbow

August 12, 2013 by AllFreeSewing Leave a Comment

We were all introduced to Roy G. Biv as kids, and he has been our best friend for many a craft through life. The rainbow is always a go-to when you need to produce something artsy and are at a loss for ideas. I know when I was expected to turn in an art project and didn’t have ideas, I colored plenty of rainbow starbursts.

Well, sewists, rejoice! Roy G. Biv is there for all of you too. You can use the color spectrum to find inspiration for easy sewing projects.

Instead of coming up with a project and then choosing a color scheme, try starting with a color and working from there. Whether you have sewer’s block (if that doesn’t currently exist, say it enough and we’ll make it catch on), or need an idea to sew someone a gift, start with the rainbow. The easy sewing projects below are organized by color and will help you choose the perfect project for whomever you’ll be crafting.

Easy Sewing Projects in Red

Baby Peasant Dress

Double Layer Skirt

Fun Fringe Tote

Mini Decorative Pillow

Pencil Patchwork Case

Ruffly Rosey Romper

Simple Patterned Bibs

Easy Sewing Projects in Orange

Cutie Pie Baby Dress

Deep Pockets Skirt

Fabric Pumpkin Basket

Handprint Turkey Softie

Lady’s iPhone Case

Plum Peachy Ruffled Pillow

Pumpkin Tutu Costume

Sew Easy Dog Collar

Easy Sewing Projects in Yellow

Big and Bright Flower Pillow

Comfy Wrap Cardigan

Large Tote with Rounded Opening

Pretty Petite Purse

Vintage Sheet to Maxi Dress

Walking on Sunshine Upcycled Dress

Easy Sewing Projects in Green

Asymmetrical Tunic Sweater

Carpetbag Tote

DIY Drawstring Backpack

Hands-Free Hobo Bag

Easy Sewing Projects in Blue

Clutch It

Cozy Drape Front Cardigan

Double Layer Chiffon Halter

Fabric Pennant Banner

Flamenco Ruffle Tank

Great Outdoor Baby Blanket

Pleated High Waist Skirt

Simple Ruffle Skirt

The Awesome Denim Clutch

Easy Sewing Projects in Purple

15 Minute Mouse Pad Wrist Rest

Adorable Reversible Dress

Easy Sewing Projects in Pink

Comfy Drape Top

Cute Customized Pillowcase

Reversible Craft Apron for Kids

Puppy Love Dog Bandana

Easy Sewing Projects in White

Bib with Bias Tape

Chic Lacy Top

DIY Ottoman Slipcover

Love that Lace Skirt

Pretty Princess Dress

Ruffled Ball Clasp Purse

Spinning Ruffles Pillow Cover

Summertime Fabric Wallet

Easy Sewing Projects in Brown

Doggy Bed and Blanket Set

Gentleman’s iPhone Case

Your Pet’s Favorite Toy

Easy Sewing Projects in Black

Dotty Embroidered Tote

Stylish Upcycled Pocket Purse

The Piano Shoulder Bag

Easy Sewing Projects that Put it All Together

Crayon Storage Roll-Up

Eye-Catching Throw Pillow

Rainbow Diamonds Mini Quilt

Scraptacular Crazy Block

Starflower Block Tutorial

Zippered Rainbow Wristlet

What’s your favorite color fabric to sew with?

The Top Five Sweetest Summer Dresses to Sew

June 20, 2013 by AllFreeSewing 1 Comment

If you’re like me, you check the weather multiple times everyday. I check it when I wake up, and I check it less than an hour later before I get dressed and leave for class or work. And I most certainly do not go to sleep without checking tomorrow’s weather at least once. This probably seems obsessive (okay, it is obsessive), but I do my best to be dressed weather-appropriate before I head out for several hours. If there’s one thing I can tell you from the numerous weather reports I’ve recently read, it’s that it’s time to break out your summer dresses because the warm weather is on its way.

What’s in style is ever-changing, and perhaps you’re ready to add some new summer dresses to your wardrobe. Let’s be honest, who has ever said they couldn’t use another great dress for the summer? If you’re ready to update your closet, check out these five sweet summer dresses that you can sew to get ready for some fun in the sun.

Easy Breezy Summer Dress for Girls

Nothing says “summer is here” like a great floral print dress. You can sew this little number for your little girl in just a few easy steps. Check out the summer dress tutorial to see how you can make this adorable outfit full of ruffly fun.

Stitch in Color Summer Dress

This sweet summer dress is full of bright, eye-catching colors and features the ever-popular overalls design. Your daughter will love playing and twirling in this soft and comfy outfit you sewed just for her.

Super Easy Summer Dress

A great summer dress is just a few stitches away with simple patterns like this one. This strapless dress is so easy to make, you might even want to try it in a few different colors. Grab your favorite fabric (or two, or ten) and give this pattern a whirl.

Summer Dress

Your next summer dress can be a low-budget, upcycling project. Grab an old plaid shirt and sew away using this dress pattern. There’s no need to spend big bucks when you can sew a sweet dress with recycled materials.

Easy Summer Halter Dress

This sweet summer dress is perfect for any beach getaway. All eyes will be on you when you wear this ensemble, and you’ll love knowing that your great dress was made from your very own handiwork.

Which of these dress patterns do you want to try?

How to Sew a Lapped Zipper

March 29, 2012 by FaveCrafts Leave a Comment

This guest post was written by Lavender Marsh for Threadsquare.

This is far from a groundbreaking, world changing technique. But I thought I’d share anyway, simply because lapped zips always seemed fidgety to me when I first started sewing. The trouble always occurred in the left seam allowance. It just never permitted enough room for topstitching the lap, or not enough to my liking. This was especially problematic with heavier fabrics, where I like to use as much width of the zip tape as possible so that the lap will lay flat. When I would stitch my preferred distance to the left of the seam, I’d barely catch the underlying seam allowance. Here’s my simple fix:

When cutting out pattern pieces, switch from 5/8” SA to 1” at beginning of zip placket. Trim off excess at garment’s right side – laps are generally on the left, so that is where you’ll need the extra 3/8”. Finish edges of seam allowances (my demo pieces are simply pinked).

Stitch seam RS together, B to T to bottom of placket, back tack, then machine baste the placket. Clip basting stitches to assist in removal later, about 1” intervals.

Turn garment right side up, top toward you. Fold SA of right side under 1/2”, leaving 1/8” exposed. Press or finger press.

Shown RS up, top away from you – note the extra SA width on the left

Pin to right zip tape, with top of tape hanging off edge (good thing you bought a longer than called-for zip! So much easier than working around the bulky stop.) and bottom stop at bottom of placket.

Baste, if necessary, or simply stitch from B to T, with zip foot to left, needle close to folded edge. Pull thread to back & tie off.

Just ignore that wavy stitch line 🙂

Lay left side of garment back over zip tape. There is now plenty of SA on left side to stitch garment to zip.

Align center seam to the stitch lines you just made (notice these stitches are a continuation of the seamline). Pin and hand baste across bottom, then 1/2” from seamline.

With zip foot to right, start with needle at seamline. Hand crank over zip, pivot and stitch to top, just outside of basting.

Bring threads to back, tie off, remove basting. Et voila! You could also hand-pick for a couture touch. The extra bit of zip will be cut off when the waistband or facing is sewn.

Read more about Lavender’s sewing adventures on her blog, Threadsquare.

National Sewing Month: Bow Infinity Wrap by Angel of Fleece Fun

September 21, 2011 by AllFreeSewing 33 Comments

Dear Readers,

It’s National Sewing Month! To celebrate, AllFreeSewing.com is hosting a special blog series throughout the entire month. Check back daily for posts featuring our favorite projects, new sewing videos and tutorials, guest blogs from talented designers and more. We’re also giving away a HUGE sewing prize at the end of the month. You won’t believe how EASY it is to WIN!

Leave a comment on any of the blog posts with the headline “National Sewing Month”. Your comment will count as an entry into the giveaway. You are free to comment as often as once per blog post (for a total of 30 chances to win!). At the end of the month, we’ll pool all of the comments together and pick one lucky winner to win the mystery grand prize. And trust us; you want to win this one!

Whether you’re already a sewing enthusiast or new to the craft, our hope is that this September will encourage you to create wonderful sewn projects.

Happy National Sewing Month!

Here’s today’s post:

Hello Sewing Enthusiasts! I’m Angel with Fleece Fun and today I’m going to show you have to make a Bow Infinity Wrap.

Bows are back and in vogue. You can make this cute wrap that will keep your shoulders warm and when made out of minky feels oh-so-good against the skin. This project can be completed from start to finish in under a half hour.

For this project you will need:

¾ yard of minky or micro-fleece (can substitute regular polar fleece or Jersey knit)(Note: if you are making this in an extra-large size you may need more fabric),
jersey ball point needle,
rotary cutter, mat,
measuring tape,
needle,
thread,
pins,
sewing machine

Step 1: Take a quick rough measurement.

Unfold the cloth so it is its full width (approx. 58 to 60 inches) and wrap around your shoulders. You want the wrap to be snug, so it won’t droop off the shoulders, but not so snug it completely restricts your movement. Mark with a pin. Take to your rotary cutter and matt and cut off the excess. Now taking this excess cut a strip that is 5 inches wide and 8 inches long.

Step 2: Begin to Sew

Taking the large piece of fabric (the one that goes around your shoulders) – fold it in over on itself right sides together (so it’s the same length, just half the width) and sew, using a .5 seam allowance all the way down the fabric length. This will make a large tube turn right side out ( so all the soft goodness in on the outside).

Step 3: Gather part of each end.

To help with the “bow” look, we’re going to make some pleats (folds) on each end of the scarf. Looking at the end of the scarf mark about 1/3 in of the width. Then (and this doesn’t have to be perfect) make three pleats by folding over the fabric and pinning using 2/3 of the width. (See picture) Repeat on the other side taking care that you do this on the opposite side. You should have the folds on the top on one side and on the bottom on the other. Once you have pinned each side sew the fold in place using a straight stich about .5 from the end of each side. Sew all the way down completely closing the wrap ends.

Step 4: Join the ends

Taking the each end and bringing it together, the one side should have pleats and the other should be straight. Pin the pleats on top, each side ( you will “twist the fabric in the middle to make this happen). The overlap should be about 1 inch.

Then sew, together, through all the layers of cloth (be careful and go slow). This should make the wrap one large circle.

Step 5: Wrapping it up

Taking the 5×8 piece of fabric turn under the edges .5 inches and using a zig zag stich sew the ends down. Then take the piece and with right sides together wrap it around the wrap – pin the ends together and sew using a .5 seam allowance, taking care to keep all the other fabric out of the way. Turn right side out, slide so that if covers the seam where the wrap ws join and hand stich a few stiches in the back to make the loop stay in place. Finished! You now have a cute wrap, that feels as good as it looks!

Find more projects and video tutorials by Angel of Fleece Fun on AllFreeSewing.com

National Sewing Month: Medicine Kit by Lelanie of To Sew With Love

September 9, 2011 by AllFreeSewing 19 Comments

Dear Readers,

Whether you’re already a sewing enthusiast or new to the craft, our hope is that this September will encourage you to create wonderful sewn projects.

Happy National Sewing Month!

Here’s today’s post:

Hi, everyone. I am Lelanie from To Sew With Love and we are happy to be here with you for the National Sewing Month.

I would like to share with you today a very quick tutorial for an On-the-Go Medicine Kit.

You could even personalized it by adding more compartments and varying it’s size depending on your needs.

If you are a mom like me or if you like to be organized, this medicine kit is perfect for you. I actually have one of this for each car (mine and my hubby’s) and I already wanting to make a smaller one for my mommy purse where I keep my Diaper and Wipes Purse.

I came up with this kit when one day, I was out to the groceries with my kids and my eldest got a small scratch on her knee and we were still on our way to the groceries. Yes, I did bought band-aid when we arrived at the grocery but I did wish I had something on hand before that. Believe me when I say this little organizer will be one of your must-haves whenever you got out especially with kids!

You won’t even have to go out and buy fabric for this project. You could make it right now from a half-yard or less than a half-yard fabric. You could also use a combination of scrap fabrics for this project. A really great way to use those scrap fabrics in your stash. Plus a really quick project. It would take you about more or less 30 minutes to finish one!

This is great as a last-minute gift idea as this would make a very nice and thoughtful gift for moms or dads, parents-to-be or just anybody you care about!

So, let’s proceed to the tutorial!

*Feel free to add/subtract inches to/from my given measurement. Measurements are in inches.

Main Body, 2 pcs. : 21.5 x 9

Side Pockets, 2 pcs. : 8 x 9

Center Pockets, 4 pcs. : 5.5 x 4.5

Envelope Pocket, 2 pcs. : 6.5 x 5.5

Flap for Envelope Pocket: 2.25 x 5.5

If you want your medicine kit to have some body, you can iron or sew on medium to heavy weight stabilizer. This is entirely up to you. I stabilized my two main body fabrics with iron-on medium weight stabilizer.

Don’t worry if you don’t have stabilizer on hand. You can still make this project without it.

Get one of your side pockets and fold it in half so you would end up with a 4×9 sized pocket. Sew straight stitches 1/4 inch away from the folded edge as seen above. Do the same to the other side pocket piece. Set aside.

Get two of your center pockets pieces, bring them together right sides facing together and sew straight stitches all throughout the four sides of the fabric. Do not forget to leave a more or less 2.5 inches unsewn part/opening so you could turn your fabric later.

Clip the edges and turn your pocket piece inside out.

Topstitch on one side of your pocket (which would be the top part of your pocket). Repeat the same steps for the two remaining center pocket pieces and for the rest of the fabric pieces (envelope pocket and flap).

Get one of your main body piece and pin in place (on each side of the main body fabric) your (2) side pockets and both center pockets on the center of your main body fabric.

Add a tag if you want to.

Sew on the pocket to your main body fabric by sewing basting stitches all around the three sides of your pocket.

Do the same to the other pocket.

I have decided to divide one of the pockets into two so I’ll have more compartments. To do so, just get the center of your pocket and sew straight stitches all the way the top and bottom of your pocket.

Do you remember we also pinned in place our center pockets? I pinned my in place and the bottom part of my center pocket is about 1.5″ away from the edge of the main body fabric.

As I did not want to have a medicine kit which is too bulky on one side, I have decided to have my left center pocket on the bottom while the right center pocket on the top (it would be like upside down). I hope I make sense (sometimes I even confuse myself ^^).

But if not, it will be clearer when you see the finished item ^^)

Sew your pocket in place by sewing all around the three unsewn sides. Remember, only the sides and the bottom. Do not sew on the pocket opening (I once did ^^)

I have decided to make a tab with velcro as closure for this medicine kit. So I took two fabric pieces (6″ x 2″) and have sewn them together, right sides facing together, with straight stitches, leaving an opening to turn it inside out after clipping the edges,

Turn it inside out and topstitch all the sides.

Get the other main body fabric (the one without any pockets on yet), assemble your envelope pocket overlapping the flap on the pocket and pin in place.

Sew it on your main body fabric by sewing straight stitches all throughout the four sides.

Determine where your tab closure should go and pin in place. Do not forget the velcro! ^^)

Do not forget the other part of the velcro. I also added a handmade tag below the velcro.

Sew each and every piece on.

Get both main body pieces, right sides facing together and sew them together by sewing straight stitches all the way, leaving about 3-3.5″ unsewn so you can turn your piece inside out later.

Turn it inside out and topstitch. Make sure you have arranged well your side pockets before topstitching. For this medicine kit, I have forgotten to turn the side pocket where it should be and so I ended up with only 1 side pocket and two center pockets on one side and on the other side, one envelope pocket and side pocket. I, however, made sure to avoid committing the same mistake on the next medicine kit I made ^^)

That is the envelope pocket in action.

Do you remember, I told you that I forgot to flip the pocket on the side where it should be? So you could see the side pocket here when I folded and brought the sides of my kit on the center.

I made a mistake in taking this shot but I am sure you can see the other pocket on the right hand side. You see, it looks like it’s upside down. I wanted it that way to avoid bulk on only one part of the kit. But if you’d rather have both pockets on the same side, you can of course make it that way.

Some more pockets. I later placed a small bottle of iodine solution on the center pocket where the gauze is in this picture.

I love pockets! The more, the better! ^^)

Another view on a different angle. ^^)

Here’s the other medicine kit which I have made. The one with the rooster print is for my hubby’s car while the other one is for my car.

While I am writing this post, I am already planning to make one for my mommy bag!

You can never have enough medicine kits!

I hope you liked our tutorial. And thank you, All Free Sewing for inviting us over.

Have a lovely day everyone!

Hugs,

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