Shore Thing Crochet Beach Cover Up Pattern

June 14, 2018 by FaveCrafts Leave a Comment

I absolutely love the summer, and it’s not because my birthday is in August. (On the 16th for anyone who’d really like to get me a present, wink wink). But I love summer because you spend those super warm and sunny days at the beach.

You walk barefoot on the scorching hot sand. You wear more sunscreen than you’ve ever had in your entire life. And when you’re sitting in the passenger’s seat on the drive back, you fall asleep with your head slumped against the window. A beach day is one of the best days of the summer. And I especially enjoy that I can wear a cute crochet beach cover-up.

When people mentioned crochet around me, I’d always thought that crocheting was for the wintertime, like crochet scarves and sweaters. But I’ve learned that you can create so many staple pieces with crochet, including crochet beach cover-ups. And if you’re someone who likes to wear a top or a dress over your swimsuit, then you’ll absolutely love this Shore Thing Crochet Beach Cover Up Pattern. So, next time that you’re at the beach, wear this lovely crochet beach cover-up pattern or, better yet, try creating some crochet crafts while you’re at the beach!

Shore Thing Crochet Beach Cover Up Pattern

Materials:

2 balls of Red Heart It’s A Wrap Yarn in Western
3.25 mm (US D-3) crochet hook
Yarn needle

Gauge: 5 pattern repeats =7 in [18 cm]; 12 rows = 4 in [10 cm] in shell pattern of lower section. 20 sts = 4 in [10 cm] in half double crochet (hdc), after blocking.

Finished size:

To Fit Bust: 30-34 (36-42, 44-50, 52- 58)” [76-86.5 (91.5-106.5, 112-127, 132-147.5) cm].
Finished Bust/Hip: 42 (48, 56, 65)” [106.5 (122, 142, 165) cm], after blocking.
Finished Length: 36 (37, 38, 39)” [91.5 (94, 96.5, 99) cm].

Abbreviations:

ch = chain
dc = double crochet
hdc =half double crochet
sc = single crochet
st(s) = stitch(es)
() = work directions in parentheses into same st.
[ ] = work directions in brackets the number of times specified.
* = repeat whatever follows the * as indicated.

Special Stitches:

dc2tog (double crochet 2 stitches together) = [Yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up loop, yarn over, draw through 2 loops] 2 times, yarn over, draw through all 3 loops on hook.
Fdc (foundation double crochet – This technique creates a foundation chain and a row of double crochet stitches in one) =
First st: Place a slip knot on hook, ch 3, yarn over, insert hook in 3rd ch from hook and draw up a loop, yarn over, draw through 1 loop on hook (the “chain”), [yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook] twice (the “double crochet”).
Remaining sts: *Yarn over, insert hook in “chain” of previous stitch and draw up a loop, yarn over, draw through 1 loop on hook (the “chain”), [yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook] twice (the “double crochet”); repeat from * for desired number of stitches.
hdc2tog (half double crochet 2 stitches together) = [Yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up loop] 2 times, yarn over and draw through all 5 loops on hook.
shell = (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in indicated stitch.
2-dc Cl (2 double crochet cluster) = Yarn over, insert hook in indicated stitch or space and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook (2 loops remain on hook); yarn over, insert hook in same stitch or space and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook; yarn over and draw through all 3 loops on hook.

Pattern Instructions:

BACK
Fdc 121 (137, 161, 185)

Lower Shell Pattern Section

Row 1 (wrong side): Ch 3 (counts as dc), turn, dc in next st and each st across.
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, *ch 2, skip next 3 sts, shell in next st, ch 2, skip next 3 sts, sc in next st; repeat from * across working the last sc in top beginning ch-3—15 (17, 20, 23) shells.
Row 3:Ch 3, turn, dc in first st (beginning ch-3 and first dc count as 2-dc Cl), ch 3, sc in ch-1 space of next shell, *ch 3, 3-dc Cl in next sc, ch 3, sc in ch-1 space of next shell; repeat from * to last sc, ch 3, 2-dc Cl in last sc—16 (18, 21, 24) clusters.
Row 4: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, *ch 2, shell in next sc, ch 2, sc in next cluster; repeat from * across working the last sc in top of beginning ch-3.
Rows 5–18 (16, 12, 10): Repeat Rows 3 and 4 for 7 (6, 4, 3) more times. Decrease in Shell Pattern.
Row 1:Ch 3, turn, dc in first st (beginning ch-3 and first dc count as 2-dc Cl), ch 3, sc in ch-1 space of next shell, *ch 3, 3-dc Cl in next sc, ch 3, sc in ch-1 space of next shell; repeat from * across working last sc in last ch-1 space; leave remaining sts unworked—15 (17, 20, 23) clusters.
Row 2: Ch 5, turn, sc in next cluster, *ch 2, shell in next sc, ch 2, sc in next cluster; repeat from * across working the last sc in top of beginning ch-3—14 (16, 19, 21) shells.
Rows 3–28 (32, 38, 44): Repeat Rows 1 and 2 for 13 (15, 18, 21) more times—1 shell.
Row 29 (33, 39, 45): Ch 3, turn, dc in first st (beginning ch-3 and first dc count as 2-dc Cl), ch 3, sc in ch-1 space of shell; leave remaining sts unworked—1 cluster.
Row 30 (34, 40, 46): Ch 5, turn, sc in top of beginning ch-3. Do not fasten off.

Half Double Crochet Bias Section

Row 1 (wrong side): Ch 2 (does not count as a st here and throughout), turn, work 121 (139, 163, 187) hdc evenly spaced along sloped edge of shell section.
Row 2: Ch 2, turn, hdc in first st, hdc2tog, hdc in each st to last 2 sts, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in last st.
Row 3: Ch 2, turn, hdc in first st, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in each st to last 3 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in last st.
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until piece measures about 36 (37, 38, 39)” [91.5 (94, 96.5, 99) cm] from beginning, end by working a wrong side row (Row 3).

Top Shell Pattern Section

Row 1 (right side): Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, *ch 2, skip next 2 sts, shell in next st, ch 2, skip next 2 sts, sc in next st; repeat from * across—20 (23, 27, 31) shells
Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc), turn, sc in ch-1 space of next shell, *ch 3, 3-dc Cl in next sc, ch 3, sc in ch-1 space of next shell; repeat from * to last sc, dc in last sc—19 (22, 26, 30) clusters.
Row 3: Ch 3 (counts as dc), turn, 2 dc in first sc, ch 2, sc in next cluster, *ch 2, shell in next sc, ch 2, sc in next cluster; repeat from * to last sc, ch 2, 2 dc in last sc, dc in top of beginning ch-3—18 (21, 25, 29) shells.
Row 4: Ch 3 (counts as hdc, ch 1), turn, 3-dc Cl in next sc, *ch 3, sc in ch-1 space of next shell, ch 3, 3-dc Cl in next sc; repeat from * to last 3 dc, ch 1, hdc in top of beginning ch-3—19 (22, 26, 30) clusters.
Row 5: Ch 2 (counts as hdc), turn, sc in next cluster, *ch 2, shell in next sc, ch 2, sc in next cluster; repeat from * to beginning ch-3 space, hdc in beginning ch-3 space—18 (21, 25, 29) shells.
Row 6: Ch 4 (counts as dc, ch 1), turn, sc in ch-1 space of next shell, *ch 3, 3-dc Cl in next sc, ch 3, sc in ch-1 space of next shell; repeat from * to last sc, ch 1, skip last sc, dc in beginning ch-2 spac —17 (20, 24, 28) clusters.
Row 7: Ch 3 (counts as dc), turn, 3 dc in next sc, *ch 2, sc in next cluster, ch 2, shell in next sc; repeat from * to last sc, 3 dc in last sc, dc in beginning ch-4 space—16 (19, 23, 27) shells.
Row 8: Ch 2, turn, sc in next dc (beginning ch-2 and following sc count as hdc2tog), ch 1, 3-dc Cl in next sc, *ch 3, sc in ch-1 space of next shell, ch 3, 3-dc Cl in next sc; repeat from * to last 4 dc, ch 1, skip next dc, hdc2tog, leave beginning ch-3 unworked—17 (20, 24, 28) clusters.
Row 9: Ch 3 (counts as dc), turn, sc in next cluster, *ch 2, shell in next sc, ch 2, sc in next cluster; repeat from * to last sc. dc in last sc—16 (19, 23, 27) shells.
Row 10: Ch 3, turn, dc in next sc (beginning ch-3 and following dc count as dc2tog), ch 2, sc in ch-1 space of next shell, *ch 3, 3-dc Cl in next sc, ch 3, sc in ch-1 space of next shell; repeat from * to last sc, ch 2, dc2tog (worked over last sc and beginning ch-3 space)—15 (18, 22, 26) clusters.
Row 11: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, shell in next sc, *ch 2, sc in next cluster, ch 2, shell in next sc; repeat from * to beginning ch-3, sc in top of beginning ch-3—16 (19, 23, 27) shells.
Row 12: Turn, slip st in next 2 dc, ch 1, sc in ch-1 space of same shell, *ch 3, 3-dc Cl in next sc, ch 3, sc in ch-1 space of next shell; repeat from * to beginning ch-2; leave remaining sts unworked—15 (18, 22, 26) clusters.
Row 13: Ch 4 (counts as ch 1, dc), turn, sc in next cluster, *ch 2, shell in next sc, ch 2, sc in next cluster; repeat from * to last sc, ch 1, dc in last sc—14 (17, 21, 25) shells.
Row 14: Ch 2 (counts as hdc), turn, 3-dc Cl in next sc, *ch 3, sc in ch-1 space of next shell, ch 3, 3-dc Cl in next sc; repeat from * to beginning ch-4 space, hdc in beginning ch-4 space—15 (18, 22, 26) clusters.
Row 15: Ch 1, turn, sc in first cluster, *ch 2, shell in next sc, ch 2, sc in next cluster; repeat from * across; leave beginning ch-2 unworked—14 (17, 21, 25) shells.
Row 16: Ch 2 (counts as hdc), turn, sc in ch-1 space of next shell, *ch 3, 3-dc Cl in next sc, ch 3, sc in ch-1 space of next shell; repeat from * across, hdc in last dc of same shell; leave remaining sts unworked—15 (18, 22, 26) clusters.
Row 17: Ch 3, turn, dc in next sc (beginning ch-3 and following dc count as dc2tog), ch 2, sc in next cluster, *ch 2, shell in next sc, ch 2, sc in next cluster; repeat from * to last sc, ch 2, dc2tog (worked over last sc and beginning ch-2 space)—14 (17, 21, 25) shells.
Row 18: Ch 2 (counts as hdc), turn, 3-dc Cl in next sc, *ch 3, sc in ch-1 space of next shell, ch 3, 3-dc Cl in next sc; repeat from * to last 2 dc, hdc in top of beginning ch-3—15 (18, 22, 26) clusters.
Row 19: Ch 1, turn, sc in first cluster, *ch 2, shell in next sc, ch 2, sc in next cluster; repeat from * across—14 (17, 21, 25) shells.
Rows 20–55 (55, 73, 91): Repeat Rows 2–19 for 2 (2, 3, 4) more times—2 (5, 3, 1) shells.
Beginning with Row 2, work until no more shells or clusters remain in last row.
Do not fasten off.

Top Edging

Row 1: Ch 1, working in ends of rows, work 95 (112, 130, 148) sc evenly spaced along top edge.
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.
Row 3: Ch 3 (counts as dc), turn, dc in next 14 (17, 20, 23) sts, hdc in each st to last 15 (18, 21, 24) sts, dc in last 15 (18, 21, 24) sts.
Row 4: Ch 3 (counts as dc), turn, dc in next 14 (17, 20, 23) sts, slip st in each st to last 15 (18, 21, 24) sts, dc in last 15 (18, 21, 24) sts.
Fasten off.

FRONT
Make same as back.

FINISHING
Block pieces to schematic measurements, straightening edges to ensure that each piece is rectangular.

If you like this crochet beach cover-up pattern, check out these 22 Summer Crochet Patterns!

Iris Paper Folded Christmas Tree Handmade Card

October 21, 2015 by Vicki O'Dell 3 Comments

I love Iris Paper Folding! It is fun and relaxing, plus it’s a great way to use up leftover scrapbooking paper. This Christmas tree pattern is easy if you have not tried Iris Paper Folding before. You can create a couple of styles with all of the same pattern/color of paper in one area or alternate them to create another look for your handmade card. If you’re looking for fun paper crafts for the holidays, then a beautiful handmade card is a great option!

Iris Paper Folded Christmas Tree Handmade Card

Supplies:

Cutting mat
Craft knife
Tape
Double sided tape
Ruler
Cardstock for face of card
Iris pattern printed out on lightweight cardstock
Blank card
3 Coordinating scrapbook papers
Bone Folder

Directions:

Print the iris pattern on lightweight cardstock or copy paper and cut it out as shown with scissors or craft knife. A ruler helps with the straight edges.

Tape the cut out pattern onto the back of the colored piece of cardstock. Using the craft knife, cut the center out of the cardstock as shown.

Tape the pattern to the cutting mat.

Tape the cut colored cardstock , face down, to the mat with the pattern in the center of the cutout as shown.

Cut 2 or 3 strips of each pattern of scrapbooking paper into 1 1/2 inch strips and fold in half lengthwise. Use a bone folder to get a sharp crease.

Begin at the #1 position and cover that portion of the pattern with paper.

Tape along the outside of the pattern where the paper will overlap to adhere the folded paper to the back side of the colored cardstock.

NOTE: The folded side of the scrapbook paper always faces the center of the pattern.

NOTE: You can cut or tear the strips of paper to the correct length. Whichever works best for you.

Cover the #2 position with the next color of scrapbook paper.

Continue until all of the numbers are covered by taping the strips of paper to one another and to the outside edge of the pattern.

Fill in the center with scrapbook paper or a bit of the cardstock.

Tape around the edge of the cardstock and center it in the middle of a blank card face. Press well to adhere.

What’s your favorite Christmas tree decoration?

Recycled Crafts: Minion Craft Full Tutorial

July 13, 2015 by FaveCrafts 3 Comments

SPOILER ALERT! This is an adorable preschool craft in lieu of the new Minions movie, and I wanted to give you a full tutorial of a quick craft for kids. Toilet paper roll crafts are such a big craft because they are always around and there’s so much to do with them. This is a full tutorial for a cute little minion toy that your child can easily take with them anywhere they go. This one calls for the traditional yellow minions, but you can also change it up a bit and make the evil purple minions.

I feel like as I get older, the more I appreciate the stuff I took advantage of as a kid, or rather what I didn’t take advantage of. I was one of those kids who wanted to grow up way too fast and was way too serious. So as a 22-year old college student, psychologists would say that I have been trying to make up for my childhood by my Disney obsession, but, like wine, those just get better with age. Being a summer pre-k teacher, you quickly find out what your group of kids enjoy and still challenge their motor skills. Recycling is very important to me to begin with, as is green cleaning, so I loved to implement that in the classroom. The best part about this brilliant little kids’ craft is that a free printable pattern is provided, so even the littlest minion fans can join in the fun. They can practice their tracing and cutting skills to bring the minions to life.

Recycled Minion Craft Full Tutorial

Made for AllFreeKidsCrafts by Amanda Formaro

Materials:

3 cardboard tubes
Glue stick
Scissors
Black, gray brown and yellow markers
Construction paper: blue, yellow, white, black
Minion coveralls and goggles pattern

Instructions

1. Cut a sheet of yellow construction paper in half lengthwise. You can get two minions from each half. Apply glue stick to the yellow paper and wrap it around the cardboard tube. Trim the excess (about half a sheet) and repeat this process for the next two minions.

2. Cut a sheet of blue construction paper in half lengthwise. Take one of the halves and cut it in half in the opposite direction. Now, from one of those halves, cut it in half again, lengthwise. The strips you need measure 2×6-inches.

3. Use the pattern to cut the coveralls out of your blue strip.

4. Glue the coveralls to the yellow tube, lining it up along the bottom of the tube.

5. If you like, you can add the details such as the buttons on the coveralls using a black marker, and the front pocket with the letter “G” onto the front. For smaller kids, you may want to skip this part.

6. Cut a thin strip of black paper, about 1/4″ wide for the giggles. Glue the strip around the head area of the tube, about 3/4″ from the top of the tube.

7. Cut the goggle pieces from the black and white paper. For a minion with one eye, use the larger circles, for two eyes, use the small set of circles.

8. Glue the white circle to the black circle and draw a pupil in the eye using a brown marker. You can add a dot of black to the brown. Glue the eye to the head of the minion overlapping the goggle strap. If you like, you can make the eyes appear to be squinting by adding yellow marker to the white as shown by the minion on the left.

9. Use gray or brown markers to add mouths.

10. If you would like to add hair, cut from black paper and glue to the inside of the tube at the front.

Check out this crocheted Evil Minion Baby Hat! It’s so cute that it’s a crime.

Who is cuter: the evil minions or the yellow ones?

Checkerboard in Primary Colors Stroller Blanket

June 24, 2015 by Marie Segares Leave a Comment

I’m Marie Segares from Underground Crafter, and I’m happy to share this free crochet pattern with you today!

I am a huge fan of crochet motifs. I love the portability, especially in the warmer months. I also enjoy using up odds and ends from my stash. And, as I mentioned before with the Diagonal Rainbows Baby Blanket, I love making baby blankets. This pattern combines two favorites – motifs and baby blankets – to create a vibrant stroller blanket.

While the sample uses just 3 colors, you can always add more (or fewer) colors to customize the blanket for you!

Checkerboard in Primary Colors Stroller Blanket

Crochet Pattern by Underground Crafter

Finished Size

Stroller Blanket: 29” (73.5 cm) x 37” (94 cm).

Materials

Red Heart Super Saver (7 oz/198 g/364 yds/333 m/100% acrylic) – 1 skein ea in Blue (CA), Cherry Red (CB), and Bright Yellow (CC), or approximately 283 yds (259 m) each in CA and CB, and 343 yds (314 m) in CC in any medium weight yarn.
H-8 (5 mm) crochet hook or any size needed to obtain gauge.
Yarn needle.

Gauge

Motif = 4” (10 cm) square in pattern. Exact gauge is not critical for this project.

Abbreviations Used in This Pattern

ch – chain
ea – each
hdc – half double crochet
rep – repeat
Rnd – Round
RS – right (front) side
sc – single crochet
sl st – slip stitch
st(s) – stitch(es)
^*Rep after asterisk as indicated.

Pattern Instructions

Motif – Make 21 each in CA, CB, and CC

Ch 4, join with sl st to first ch to form ring.
Rnd 1: Ch 5 (counts as dc + ch-2 sp, here and throughout), (dc, ch 2 in ring) 7 times, join with sl st to top of third ch of first ch 5. (8 dc + 8 ch-2 sp)
Rnd 2: Sl st to ch-2 sp, ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in same ch-2 sp, (ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-2 sp) 7 times, sc to top of ch 3 to join (counts as ch-1 sp). (24 dc + 8 ch-2 sp)
Rnd 3: Ch 5, 2 dc in same ch 1 sp, *dc in next 2 sts, hdc in next st, hdc in ch-1 sp, hdc in next st, dc in next 2 sts,** (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next ch-1 sp; rep from * around ending last rep at **, dc in first ch-2 sp, join with sl to top of third ch of first ch 5, sl st to ch-2 sp. Fasten off with long yarn tail (approximately 15”/38 cm) to join. (44 sts + 4 ch-2 sp)

Assembly

Following placement diagram, join motifs together to form a row. With RS facing, begin with hook and yarn tail in first ch of ch-2 sp. Line up stitches and join with sl st through back loops of each layer, skip last ch of ch-2 sp. Use CC to join rows together in the same fashion.

Border

Join CC in any corner ch-2 sp, ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in same st, *dc in next 11 sts,** dc2tog across ch-2 sp of this motif and next motif; rep from * across, ending at ** at corner ch-2 sp, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in ch-2 sp; rep from * around, ending last rep at ** in first corner ch-2 sp, (3 dc, ch 2) in ch-2 sp, join with sl st to top of first ch 3.

Finishing

With yarn needle, weave in ends. Spray block if necessary.

If you like this pattern, check out my Rectangular Sampler Baby Blanket, a free crochet pattern.

How To Make Lacy Summer Earrings

May 11, 2015 by Divya N Leave a Comment

Spring Summer 15 fashion weeks saw models of Valentino, Chloé and Louis Vuitton dressed in elegant and ethereal white lace dresses that delicately revealed bare skin at places creating a romantic wave of desire on the runway and later in various trend reports across the globe. Introduce that trend into your wardrobe in the form of these ethereal yet bohemian Lace earrings, which are perfect for summer.

Lacy Summer Earrings

Materials:

Lace 1.5″ wide and 6″ long
double side transparent tape
brass wire – 18g
Acrylic faceted round beads – 2
Pearl studded barrels – 2
copper/gold rondrell faceted crystals – 2
Gold tone headpins – 2
Gold tone earhooks – 2
Copper cedarwood beads
round nose pliers, wire cutters
Scissors
Needle and matching Thread

Method:

Cut 2.5″ of 18g wire and make a simple loop at both ends.Repeat for the pair.
Cut the lace into 2 lengthwise and apply Double sided tape at the back. Peel back the DST and roll the lace around the 18g looped wire, firmly adhering each layer to the previous one as you roll it into a bead. Repeat for the pair
Add ear hooks to the earrings
To a headpin, add the round bead, followed by the barrel and the crystal and make a simple loop while attaching it to the lower loop of the lace bead.
Thread a needle and sew copper cedarwood beads into the center of the lace beads, firmly sewing together lace ends as you go.

Variations:
# Sew beads randomly on the beads tacking the lace up as you go to get a edgy feel to the piece
#You can also paint to color the earrings as I have done in this metallic Lace necklace
# Add bead caps to the beads to make them more structured

How have you used lace in your jewelry creations?

You may also like…

Follow AllFreeJewelryMaking’s board How to Make Earrings on Pinterest.

Spicy Tribal DIY Statement Necklace

May 6, 2015 by Divya N 1 Comment

Summer 2015 fashion scene is abound with an eclectic mix of vivid hues like red and tangerines combined with soft pastels like pink, aqua and moss. Add to that a good dose of Tribal jewelry and you get yourself a winning look for the rest of the summer and even winter this year. This bold necklace is a great way to add a streak of color, pattern and tribal flair to your wardrobe. Pair it with a little white dress or a breezy shirt and watch your style quotient zoom.

Spicy Tribal DIY Statement Necklace

Materials

24g half hard brass wire
Red shell Talon beads
Pink stone beads -14
Coated acrylic oblong bead – 2
Coated acrylic fluted rondrell – 2
Carnelian nugget – 2
Adjustable Neck cord – Moss green – 1
Round nose pliers, wire cutter

Method

Cut a 12″ length of half hard brass wire. Add the red talons (Shell beads) in it in such a way that the shorter ones are towards the end and in between the sizes are staggered
Bend the wire slightly to get a bib like shape and accommodate all the talons, without them climbing on top of one another. Using nose pliers, make wrapped loops at both ends of the wire.
To another length of wire (don’t cut wire from the spool) add 7 stone beads, one acrylic oblong bead, 1 acrylic fluted rondrell, one carnelian nugget, followed by 1 acrylic fluted rondrell. Make a wrapped loop connecting to one side loop of the talons.
Loop the other side of the beads by connecting to the loop of the neck cord. Repeat for the other side. You can also add jump rings or chain with a clasp instead of the drawstring neck cord closure.

Have you ever made tribal inspired jewelry?

Follow AllFreeJewelryMaking’s board DIY Statement Necklace on Pinterest.

Easy Yarn Crafts for Kids: Cup Weaving Tutorial

May 1, 2015 by FaveCraftsBlog Leave a Comment

Easy crafts with yarn that are not crochet or knit can be hard to come by. I like to find yarn crafts that are creative and functional but also perfect for kids. This tutorial from Yarnspirations fits the bill and we are so excited to share it with you. Organize your desk with these woven cups and show off your love for yarn! These cupse are a great way to use up yarn and teach kids a new weaving technique.

MATERIALS

Version I Caron® Simly Soft® Paints Peacock Feather – 1 ball
Version II Caron® Simply Soft® Ocean – 1 ball, Cool Green – 1 ball, Neon Green – 1 ball, Neon Yellow – 1 ball
Plastic cup (cup shown is 20 oz/476 ml size).
Marker.
Tape.
Scissors.
Printed template.
Glue (hot glue and glue gun is recommended – adult supervision required).

CUP WEAVING INSTRUCTIONS – Both Versions

1. Place cup upside down on printed template, centering the mouth of cup within the circle. (See template on page 3).

2. Mark cup at each dividing line with maker.

3. Repeat Steps 1 & 2 at base of cup.

4. Cut down sides of cup at each mark from mark at mouth of cup to mark at base of cup leaving approximately ¼” [0.5 cm] uncut at base. You will have 1 1 weaving strips.

5. Tape end of yarn to the inside bottom of the cup.

6. Weave yarn in and out of strips, pushing weaving to bottom of cup as you work.

TO CHANGE COLORS – Version 2

1. Cut first yarn and bring tail to inside (see blue yarn in photo). Place end of new second color inside cup, skipping one weaving strip (see green yarn in photo).

2. Begin weaving with new color, trapping yarn tails between weaving and inside of cup as you go.

3. Repeat Steps 1 and 2 as necessary for desired stripe pattern.

TO FINISH – Both Versions

Cut yarn and tuck tail into weaving at inside of cup. Dab with glue and let dry to secure.

BRAID: Cut 12 lengths of yarn approximately 36” [91.5 cm] long. Tie strands together close to one end. Divide strands into groups of 4 and braid together, tying a knot to secure end. Glue braid around top edge of cup, cutting to size and securing ends at inside of cup with glue (cut off any knots to avoid bulk). Make a second braid and glue around bottom of cup in the same manner.

What would you use these cups for?

Follow AllFreeCrochet’s board Yarn Crafts for Kids on Pinterest.

How To Make a Basket Out of Chicken Wire and Yarn

April 5, 2015 by Robyn Josephs 3 Comments

My fave event at the Craft Hobby Association Show in Anaheim is the Prime Publishing Blogger Networking Event. I love putting faces in person, to folks I’ve become friends with in type. And when you get home, the swag arrives, big time!

This year I got a large selection of metal and metal tools from MD Crafts. and a Mega Bulky acrylic yarn from Bernat. I never would have chosen these materials and tools for myself, and they really got the creative juices flowing.

Crocheted Mega Bulky Chickenwire Basket

Tools and Supplies

MD Crafts Chicken Wire
MD Crafts Hobby Shears and Gloves
Bernat Mega Bulky Acrylic yarn

Instructions

Wearing the gloves, use the shears to cut a piece of chicken wire about twice as wide and long as the basket you want to make.
Folding and bending the wire, mold the wire into a basket shape, tucking in sharp edges.
Be sure to fold over the top rim for stability and strength .
Starting at the top make a loop with the yarn and begin finger crocheting around the rim.
Using your finger, poke the yarn though the wire holes and pull the yarn through creating a chain stitch.
Starting at the bottom, build up the sides in the same way, going back and forth in rows through the holes in the wire.
You could add beads or other embellishments in at this point.
I did try using a 15mm hook, and decided fingers worked better !
If you have sharp areas or wire, use extra stitches to cover them.
At the top rim, chain about 7 stitches to create a handle and secure with a slip stitch.
Repeat building up the other side and making a handle.
Weave in any loose ends.

You can add as much crochet to the walls as you want. I had already made a crocheted bag out of the yarn, so I only had enough yarn to do the side walls. (The bag is also featured in a free E-Book-Best Blogger Crafts 2015)

You could use your basket to hold your new craft tools…or carry veggies in from the garden, or what ever your imagination can create!

What would you like to use this basket for?

The Stunningly Beautiful Crochet Baby Blanket You Need in Your Life

April 1, 2015 by Marie Segares 7 Comments

I’m Marie Segares from Underground Crafter and I’m thrilled to share a guest post with you today! I love to crochet baby blankets. I live in New York City, and you can really never have too many blankets for a cold winter! But baby blankets are even better, because they can be used all year round as play mats, car seat blankets to protect from air conditioning, or even as security blankets for nap time.

Sometimes, though, crocheting blankets can be frustrating, especially when it seems like you have thousands more stitches to go. For this reason, I love crocheting diagonal blankets where you increase from one corner to the center and then decrease towards the end. That way, after you reach the halfway point, each row is shorter than the last! The first pattern I designed like this was Tadley’s Diagonal Blanket, a free double-ended crochet pattern.

Today, I’m sharing another diagonal blanket pattern with you, but this one is full of vibrant crochet pattern that will brighten up any baby’s day (or, even any room in your house)! Enjoy!

Diagonal Rainbows Baby Blanket

Crochet Pattern by Underground Crafter

Finished Size

32.5” (83.5 cm) square.

Materials

Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice (100% acrylic, 3.5 oz/100 g, 170 yd/156 m) – 1 skein each in 114 Cheery Cherry (CA) and 132 Goldfish (CB); and 2 skeins each in 157 Duckie (CC), 169 Sweet Pea (CD), 106 Little Boy Blue (CE), and 108 Bluebell (CF), or approximately 70 yds (64 m) in CA, 160 yd (146 m) in CB, 230 yd (210 m) in CC, 235 yd (215 m) in CD, 265 yd (242 m) in CE, and 340 yd (311 m) in CF in any medium weight yarn.
US H-8/5 mm crochet hook, or any size needed to obtain gauge.
Yarn needle.

Gauge

6 boxes x 6 boxes in pattern = 4” (10 cm). Exact gauge is not critical for this project.

Abbreviations Used in This Pattern

BL – back loop only
ch – chain
dc – double crochet
ea – each
rep – repeat
Rnd(s) – Round(s)
sc – single crochet
sk – skip
sl st – slop stitch
sp – space
st(s) – stitch(es)
yo – yarn over
* Rep instructions after asterisk as indicated.
+ Rep instructions after plus sign as indicated.

Pattern Notes

Blanket is crocheted in one piece in rows from corner to corner using a variation of the diagonal box stitch.
Stitch pattern is reversible, so choose best side as right (front) side before starting to crochet border.
Border is crocheted in the round with right (front) side facing.

Pattern Instructions

With CA, ch 5.
Row 1: Turn, sk 3 (counts as ch-3 sp), dc in next 2 ch. (1 box)
Row 2: Ch 5, turn, sk 3 st, dc in next 2 st, (sl st, ch 3, 2 dc) in ch-3 sp of previous row. (2 boxes)

Increase to center

Row 3: Ch 5, turn, sk 3 st, dc in next 2 st, *(sl st, ch 3, 2 dc) in next ch-3 sp of previous row; rep from * across. (Increases by 1 box ea row)
Rows 5-8: Rep Row 3 4 times.
Row 9: Rep Row 3, changing to CB in last yo of final st of row. Fasten off CA.
Rows 10-17: Rep Row 3 8 times.
Row 18: Rep Row 3, changing to CC in last yo of final st of row. Fasten off CB.
Rows 19-26: Rep Row 3 8 times.
Row 27: Rep Row 3, changing to CD in last yo of final st of row. Fasten off CC.
Rows 28-34: Rep Row 3 7 times.
Row 35: Rep Row 3, changing to CE in last yo of final st of row. Fasten off CD.
Rows 36-40: Rep Row 3 5 times.
Row 41: Rep Row 3, changing to CF in last yo of final st of row. Fasten off CE.
Rows 42-47: Rep Row 3 6 times.

Decrease to end

Row 48: Turn, sl st in first 2 sts, *(sl st, ch 3, 2 dc) in next ch-3 sp of previous row; rep from * across. (Decreases by 1 box ea row)
Rows 49-53: Rep Row 48 5 times. Fasten off CF.
Row 54: Turn, join CE with sl st to first ch-3 sp, rep Row 48 from * across.
Rows 55-59: Rep Row 48 5 times. Fasten off CE.
Row 60: Turn, join CD with sl st to first ch-3 sp, rep Row 48 from * across.
Rows 61-66: Rep Row 48 6 times. Fasten off CD.
Row 67: Turn, join CC with sl st to first ch-3 sp, rep Row 48 from * across.
Rows 68-75: Rep Row 48 8 times. Fasten off CC.
Row 76: Turn, join CB with sl st to first ch-3 sp, rep Row 48 from * across.
Rows 77-84: Rep Row 48 8 times. Fasten off CB.
Row 85: Turn, join CA with sl st to first ch-3 sp, rep Row 48 from * across.
Rows 86-93: Rep Row 48 8 times. Fasten off CA.

Border

Rnd 1: Join CB with sl st in any corner starting with vertical box, ch 1, sc in same vertical st and in next vertical st, *3 sc in next horizontal st (ch-3 sp or side of dc), sc in ea of next 2 vertical sts;** rep from * to last st of row, sc again in same st, ch 2, turn and continue working along next side, +4 sc in next horizontal st (ch-3 sp or side of dc),++ sc in ea of next 2 vertical sts; rep from * to ** to last horizontal st of row, rep from + to ++; ch 2, turn and continue working along next side, ***2 sc in next vertical st, sc in next horizontal st, rep from * to ***, sc in first st, join with sl st to top of first sc. Fasten off CB.
Rnd 2: Join CC with sl st in any corner ch-2 sp, (ch 3, dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in same sp, *dcBL in next st, ch 1, sk 1 st, rep from * to corner ch-2 sp,** (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next ch-2 sp; rep from * around, ending last rep at **, join with sl st to top of first ch 3. Fasten off CC.
Rnd 3: Join CF in any corner ch-2 sp, ch 1, *(2 sc, ch 2, 2 sc) in ch-2 sp, scBL in next 3 sts, (working behind ch-1, dc in next st from Rnd 1), scBL in next st; rep from * to last 2 st before corner ch-2 sp, scBL in ea of next 2 sts; rep from * around, join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off CF.

Finishing

With yarn needle, weave in ends. Spray block if necessary

Who will you crochet this baby blanket for?

Follow AllFreeCrochetAfghanPatterns’s board Crochet Baby Blankets on Pinterest.

Cats in Hats Pattern Excerpt

March 22, 2015 by FaveCraftsBlog 3 Comments

Calling all cat owners and lovers of felines! We know you love to spoil your kitties in every way possible. Make your cat his/her very own hat and you will not be disappointed. Whether you want to capture your cat’s personality, a good photo for a Christmas card, or a good laugh as your cat wonders what is actually going on, you can’t deny that Cats in Hats is a excellent idea for many reasons! Enjoy this free pattern below from Sara Thomas’ new book, Cats in Hats!

Check out the blog hop and join in all of the fun! Plus, you can win a copy of this lovely book right here on the blog!

Pom Pom Hat

This peppy pom pom hat is the perfect accessory for any high-spirited kitty.

Method: Crochet

Skill Level: Beginner

Size

To fit a small adult cat

Ear opening: 2 in. (5 cm)

Width of hat between ears: 2 in. (5 cm)

Supplies

20 yd (18 m) worsted weight yarn in A (pink)
5 yd (4.5 m) worsted weight yarn in B (green)
Size H8 (5 mm) crochet hook
Yarn needle
Pom pom maker (optional)

Base

Using yarn A, work 2ch, leaving a 25 in. (64 cm) tail.

Row 1: 3sc in 2nd ch, 1ch.
Row 2: 3sc, 1ch.
Row 3: 2sc in first st, 1sc, 2sc in last st, 1ch. (5sc)
Row 4: 5sc, 1ch.
Row 5: 2sc in first st, 3sc, 2sc in last st, 1ch. (7sc)
Row 6: 7sc, 1ch.
Row 7: 2sc in first st, 5sc, 2sc in last st, 1ch. (9sc)
Row 8: 9sc, 1ch.
Row 9: 2sc in first st, 7sc, 2sc in last st, 1ch. (11sc)

First Ear Hole

Row 10: 1sc, 9ch, 1sc in last st, 1ch.

Middle Section

Rows 11-20: 11sc, 1ch.

Second Ear hole

Row 21: 1sc, 9ch, 1sc in last st, 1ch.
Row 22: 11sc, 1ch.
Row 23: 1sc, skip next st, 7sc, skip next st, 1sc, 1ch. (9sc)
Row 24: 9sc, 1ch.
Row 25: 1sc, skip next st, 5sc, skip next st, 1sc, 1ch. (7sc)
Row 26: 7sc, 1ch.
Row 27: 1sc, skip next st, 3sc, skip next st, 1sc, 1ch. (5sc)
Row 28: 5sc, 1ch.
Row 29: 1sc, skip next st, 1sc, skip next st, 1sc, 1ch. (3sc)
Row 30: 3sc, 1ch. 1sc in last st.

To create ties, work 25ch, snip yarn, and pull through loop. Trim tail. Work 25ch at the beg of the base, using 25 in. (64 cm) tail.

Front Trim

Holding yarns A and B together, work 30sc across front of hat base. Clip yarn, pull through loop, and fasten securely on underside of the hat.

Make a 1 in. (2.5 cm) pom pom from yarns A and B and attach to center of hat.

This is an easy design to adapt. Use your favorite sports team colors or holiday colors to make it your own.

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