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Sew Girl
"Over the years I have made several of these. Speaking from personal experience, I can tell you that these boxes -when used in the pictured position- are not strong enough on their own to hold very many books or magazines for very long. Eventually they will sag and become an eyesore. Preventing the eyesore from happening is simple - turn the boxes on their side once they are completed, and Voila! They are an EXCELLENT way to wrangle in all that clutter and chaos we often find throughout our home and office. There is also another way to make them strong and that is to REINFORCE THEM. Personally, I like to do this when I need to use the boxes for flimsier items like loose papers that have a tendency to curl on their edges if stored on their sides or when not packed tightly. Reinforcing the boxes means you can put a lot more weight into them even while they are laying flat like they are in the picture. I reinforce my boxes with a very thin wood that can be purchased at almost any hardware store - it is called Louon (my spelling is probably off but it is pronounced LEW-ON). It is very cost-effective and extremely easy to work with. Add to this that it is VERY VERSATILE and you have a great solution to making even very flimsy projects much more stable. I hope this helps! BTW USPS boxes are legal to use BUT ONLY if you PURCHASED them OR they are USED. IF you are thinking about using new boxes that were FREE from the USPS Priority Mail Services - then you would be breaking the law. New FREE Boxes MUST be used only for Mail. Boxes that are Purchased or Used should be OK."

Keep your portable devices protected with this easy Starburst Cozy pattern.  The great thing about this pattern is that you can make it to fit a phone, MP3 player, tablet, eReader, and much more.  This crochet cozy is super colorful and fun and makes a great gift for teens and adults alike.

starburst cozy

Materials:
1 ball each of A, B, C, D and E will make 11 Small Covers
1 ball each of A, B, C, D and E will make 3 Large Covers

  • 1 ball Lily® Sugar ’n Cream® (70.9 g/2.5 oz; 109 m/120 yds) yarn in Hot Pink (A)
  • 1 ball Lily® Sugar ’n Cream® (70.9 g/2.5 oz; 109 m/120 yds) yarn in Red (B)
  • 1 ball Lily® Sugar ’n Cream® (70.9 g/2.5 oz; 109 m/120 yds) yarn in Tangerine (C)
  • 1 ball Lily® Sugar ’n Cream® (70.9 g/2.5 oz; 109 m/120 yds) yarn in Hot Green (D)
  • 1 ball Lily® Sugar ’n Cream® (70.9 g/2.5 oz; 109 m/120 yds) yarn in Hot Blue (E)
  • Size 3.5 mm (U.S. D or 4) crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge
  • 1 button

 

Gauge:  16 sc and 17 rows = 4” [10 cm].

 

Diagram:

Cozy Diagram

 

Instructions:
Small Version: To fit device approx 2½” x 4½” [6 x 11.5 cm].
Large Version: To fit device approx 7½” x 9½” [19 x 24 cm] .

Small Version:
Note: Ch 2 at beg of rnds does not count as st.

  1. With A, ch 15.
     
  2. 1st rnd: 1 hdc in 3rd ch from hook. 1 hdc in each of next 11 ch. 3 hdc in last ch. Working across opposite side of foundation ch, 1 hdc in each of next 11 ch. 1 hdc in last ch. Join with sl st to first hdc. 27 sts. Fasten off.
     
  3. Note: Proceed as follows for rem rnds: Work hdc in horizontal bar created at back of work between stitches of previous rnd (bar is below loops normally worked- see diagram above). This leaves ‘ridge’ of top chain across each rnd.
     
  4. 2nd rnd: Join B with sl st in horizontal bar at back of last hdc of previous rnd. Ch 2. 1 hdc in same sp. *1 hdc in horizontal bar at back of next hdc. Rep from * around. Join with sl st to first hdc. Fasten off.
     
  5. 3rd rnd: With C, as 2nd rnd.
     
  6. 4th rnd: With D, as 2nd rnd.
     
  7. 5th rnd: With E, as 2nd rnd.
     
  8. 6th rnd: With A, as 2nd rnd.
     
  9. Rep 2nd to 6th rnds twice more. Do not fasten off.
     
  10. Cont as follows for button loop: With A, sl st across each st to center back of last rnd. Ch 24 (button loop). Join with sl st in center back. Fasten off.
     
  11. Sew button to front to correspond to button loop.

 

Large Version:
Note: This pattern will naturally slant to the bias as you work. It will not affect finished item.

  1. Ch 2 at beg of rnds does not count as st.
     
  2. With A, ch 84. Join in ring with sl st to first ch, taking care not to twist ch.
     
  3. 1st rnd: Ch 2. 1 hdc in first ch. 1 hdc in each of next 2 ch. *Yoh and draw up a loop in next ch. Draw up a loop in each of next 2 ch. Yoh and draw through all 5 loops on hook – hdc3tog made. 1 hdc in each of next 5 ch. 3 hdc in next ch. 1 hdc in each of next 5 ch. Rep from * to last 11 ch. Hdc3tog. 1 hdc in each of next 5 ch. 3 hdc in next ch. 1 hdc in each of last 2 ch. Join with sl st to first hdc. Fasten off.
     
  4. Note: Proceed as follows for rem rnds: Work hdc in horizontal bar created at back of work between stitches of previous rnd (bar is below loops normally worked- see diagram on page 1). This leaves a ‘ridge’ of top chains across each rnd.
     
  5. 2nd rnd: Join B with sl st in horizontal bar at back of last hdc of previous rnd. Ch 2. 1 hdc in same sp. Working in horizontal bars created at back of work between stitches of previous rnd, 1 hdc in each of next 2 bars. *Hdc3tog. 1 hdc in each of next 5 bars. 3 hdc in next bar. 1 hdc in each of next 5 bars. Rep from * to last 10 sts. Hdc3tog. 1 hdc in each of next 5 bars. 3 hdc in next bar. 1 hdc in each of last 2 hdc. Join with sl st to first hdc. Fasten off.
     
  6. 3rd rnd: With C, as 2nd rnd.
     
  7. 4th rnd: With D, as 2nd rnd.
     
  8. 5th rnd: With E, as 2nd rnd.
     
  9. 6th rnd: With A, as 2nd rnd.
     
  10. Rep 2nd to 6th rnds for Stripe Pat until work from beg (measured point to point) measures approx 9” [23 cm] ending on a 3rd rnd of Stripe Pat.
     
  11. Next rnd: Join D with sl st in horizontal bar at back of center hdc of last 3 hdc group of previous rnd. Ch 1. 1 sc in same sp. Working in horizontal bars created at back of work between sts of previous rnd, 1 sc in next bar. 1 dc in each of next 3 bars. *[(Yoh) twice and draw up a loop in next bar. (Yoh and draw through 2 loops on hook) twice] 3 times. Yoh and draw through all loops on hook – tr3tog made. 1 dc in each of next 3 bars. 1 hdc in next bar. 1 sc in each of next 3 bars. 1 hdc in next bar. 1 dc in each of next 3 bars. Rep from * to last 8 sts. Tr3tog. 1 dc in each of next 3 bars. 1 hdc in next bar. 1 sc in last bar. Join with sl st to first sc. Do not fasten off.
     
  12. Button loop: With C, sl st across to center back of last rnd.
     
  13. Ch 36 (button loop). Join with sl st in center back. Fasten off.
     
  14. Sew button to front to correspond to button loop.
     
  15. Bottom edging: Working into rem loops of foundation ch, join E with sl st in any rem loop of center ch of hdc3tog from 1st rnd. Ch 1. 1 sc in same sp. 1 sc in next ch. 1 hdc in next ch. 1 dc in each of next 3 ch. *Tr3tog over next 3 ch. 1 dc in each of next 3 ch. 1 hdc in next ch. 1 sc in each of next 3 ch. 1 hdc in next ch. 1 dc in each of next 3 ch. Rep from * to last 8 ch. Tr3tog over next 3 ch. 1 dc in each of next 3 ch. 1 hdc in next ch. 1 sc in last ch. Join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off.
     
  16. Join bottom edging: Turn work inside out and line up bottom edging. Working through both thicknesses, join E with sl st in corner. Ch 1. 1 sc in same sp. 1 sc in each st across to opposite corner. Fasten off.
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In number 3, it refers to "diagram above." Am I missing something? I don't see any diagram.

Hello--Thank you for your comment. Apologizes for forgetting to upload the diagram. Hope that didn't cause too much confusion! It's been added to the pattern now so you should be all good to go. Thanks again and have a wonderful day!--FaveCrafts Editors

Beautiful but do you go in back loops on row2 LET ME KNOW

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