This pattern from Authentic Knitting Board was inspired by two other patterns; one needle knit, and one board knit. I have always liked the needle knitted shawls and blankets that are knitted by casting on 2 or 3 stitches and then increasing each row until you have a triangle the size desired. I wanted to do this on the knitting board, but was limited by the size of the board. Then I remembered the wonderful Homespun Afghan, designed by Pat and Kim Novak of the Authentic Knitting Board Co. By setting the spacer to 1” and using a bulky homespun yarn, you are able to knit a single piece that will measure bigger than the board. By combining these two ideas the Three Seasons Shawl was born. Great for spring, fall, or winter, you will enjoy knitting and wearing this soft, luxurious shawl.
- Knitting Loom: Small gauge double sided knitting board with 84 pegs. The 28” Authentic Knitting Board set at 1” spacer setting was used in the sample.
- Yarn: 415 yards of bulky homespun yarn. Lion Brand Homespun was used in the sample. (It took a little more than 2 skeins.)
- Notions: Tapestry Needle, Knitting tool, Crochet hook
Gauge: Not terribly important. Mine came out to approx. 8 sts x 10 sts over a 4”x4” swatch (or 2 sts x 2.5 sts over a 1”x1” swatch).
Abbreviations: Cast on—CO, Bind off—BO, Decrease—Dec, Stockinette stitch—St st
Don’t forget to set the spacer setting at 1”. This is what allows the piece to knit up longer than the board. How to adjust this shawl for a perfect fit: If you would like a shawl that is not as wide, cast on less stitches, making sure that the cast on number is even. If you would like to shorten the shawl, first decide how many inches shorter you want it. Multiply this number by your row gauge. This will tell you how many rows to subtract. For example: I want the shawl 6” shorter. My row gauge is 2.5 rows equals 1”. So, I multiply 6 x 2.5= 15. I need to subtract 15 rows. When subtracting rows, always subtract a Row 1(a knit row), not a decrease row. Do this randomly, but as equally as possible throughout the whole piece. Fifteen times, in this example, you would do two decrease rows back to back. When doing two decrease rows back to back, decrease the 1st row at the edge. Decrease the 2nd row one stitch in. (See decrease note above if needed.) This keeps the edge from getting too bulky when decreasing two rows back to back. To lengthen the shawl, follow the same procedure, but add that many rows to the knitted piece. When adding rows, always add a Row 1(a knit row), not a
decrease row. Do this randomly, but as equally as possible throughout the whole piece. Fifteen times, in this example, you would have two knit rows back to back. With this shawl, it works best to add new yarn at the beginning of the row. Leave the tails hanging at the edge of the work, then weave them in along the edge later. I find this helps to keep the ends from poking out of the shawl due to the
more open stitch.
Finished size is 47” wide x 32.5” long (From top to point)
- CO 84 stitches using the stockinette cast on.
- Row 1: Knit
- Row 2: Dec 1 stitch EACH end of board, then wrap and knit row.
- Repeat these 2 rows until 2 stitches remain.
- BO remaining stitches and stitches on the anchor yarn. Weave in loose ends.
- To wear: The cast on edge is the top of the shawl. This lies across your shoulders. The point, where the last 2 bound off stitches are, hangs down the middle of the back. If desired, use a brooch or shawl pin to hold the shawl closed.