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Asymmetry Jacket

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10 Comments

This intermediate crochet pattern from Caron Yarns creates a long jacket with a fashionable asymmetrical hem. This jacket crochet pattern also features a great pattern of colorful stripes, making it a very flattering piece for all body types.  This sweater is great to have with you on cool fall nights, or something quick and fashionable to throw on for a run out to the grocery store or farmer's market.  You're sure to get lots of great compliments on this fashionable wardrobe staple.

Long Crochet Assymetry Jacket

Materials:

  • 12 (12, 12, 18, 18, 18) balls Caron Simply Soft Yarn in Chocolate (A)
  • 6 (6, 12,12, 12, 12) balls of Caron Simply Soft Yarn in Raspberry (B)
  • 6 (6, 12, 12, 12, 12) balls of Caron Simply Soft Yarn in Bone (C)
  • 6 (6, 12, 12, 12, 12) balls of Caron Simply Soft Yarn in Dark Sage (D)
  • 6 (6, 12, 12, 12, 12) balls of Caron Simply Soft Yarn in Grey Heather (E)
  • US J-10 (6 mm) crochet hook or size to obtain gauge
  • Split ring stitch markers or scraps of yarn
  • Yarn needle

 

Gauge:  In foundation single crochet, using US J-10 (6 mm) hook, 12 sts = 4"/10 cm.  In mesh pattern, using US J-10 (6 mm) hook, 13 sts and 14 rows = 4"/10 cm.

 

Finished Measurements: 
When worn, the fronts rotate around and down forming long points. There is a lot of stretch and overlap in the fronts.

  • Back Width:  (measured at underarm) 19 (21, 23, 24 1/2, 26 1/2, 28)
  • Bust:  (estimate = 2 times back width) 38 (42, 46, 49, 53, 56)"
  • Length:  30 (31, 32, 33, 34, 34 1/2)"

 

Special Terms:

  • Fsc: Foundation single crochet (This technique creates a foundation chain and a row of single crochet stitches in one)
    • Step 1: Place a slip knot on hook, ch 2, insert hook in 2nd ch from hook and draw up a loop; yarn over and draw through one loop on hook (the "chain"); yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook (the "single crochet").
    • Step 2: The following stitch is worked under the forward 2 loops of the stem of the previous stitch (into the "chain"). Insert hook into the face of the "chain" and under the nub at the back of the "chain", draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through one loop on hook (the "chain"), yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook (the "single crochet"). Repeat for the length of foundation.
  • sc2tog: Single crochet 2 together – Insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, (two loops on hook), insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through all three loops on hook.

 

Notes:

  • Gauge is measured with garment slightly stretched; it is a "hung" gauge that results with the weight of the completed garment.
  • To change color at the end of a row: Work last sc of row to last yarn over, yarn over with new color and draw through all loops on hook to complete stitch. Pick up new color from underneath old color as you ch 1 to begin next row, wrapping the carried strand for neatness. You will be working with only three colors at any time. Carry one unused strand up each side as you work, cutting and joining colors according to separate sequences.
  • To change color at the end of a right side round: Work last ch 1 in old color, drop old color to wrong side of work, insert hook in first sc, yarn over with new color and draw through all loops on hook to complete joining slip st, turn. To change color at the end of a wrong side round: Work last ch 1 in old color, turn, drop old color to wrong side of work, reach back and insert hook in first sc, yarn over with new color and draw through all loops on hook to complete joining slip st. Pick up new color from underneath carried strands as you ch 1 to begin next round, wrapping for neatness. Remember to keep all carried strands on the wrong side of the piece (inside sleeve).

 

 

Instructions:
Small (Medium, Large, X-Large, XX-Large, XXX-Large)

Color Sequence

  1. This is a long sequence, but it is made up of three-row color repeats. A is the main color, used every third row. The other colors are used either three or five times, and then swapped out.
     
  2. Work 1 row of each color as indicated: [A, B, C] 3 times, [A, B, D] 2 times, [A, E, D] 3 times, [A, C, B] 3 times, [A, C, E] 2 times, [A, D, E] 3 times


Work begins with a long scarf that becomes the shawl collar. The shoulders are then "grown" by increasing at two corners centered at the back while continuing to work the long fronts. The body is then formed by joining the piece at the underarms and leaving armholes open for sleeves. The body is worked even to desired length.

Collar
The foundation will be slightly more relaxed than remainder of the collar, so the edge can expand as it rolls over for a shawl collar.

  1. With A, Fsc 183 (189, 195, 201, 207, 213) to measure approx 61 (63, 65, 67, 69, 71)"/155 (160, 165, 170, 175.5, 180.5)cm, change to B.
     
  2. Row 1: With B, ch 1, sc in first sc, [ch 1, skip next Fsc, sc in next Fsc] across, turn; change to C—92 (95, 98, 101, 104, 107) sc.
     
  3. Rows 2–20: With new color, [ch 1, sc in next ch-1 space] across, end with ch 1, sc in last sc, turn; change to next color in Color Sequence.

 

Shoulders
Shoulders are now "grown" by making two corner increases equally spaced from center of back neck. Mark the ch-1 space at center of each corner, move markers up as work progresses.

  1. Row 21: With new color, [ch 1, sc in next ch-1 space] 42 (43, 44, 45, 46, 47) times, ch 1, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch-1 space (corner made), place marker in last ch-1 made, [ch 1, sc in next ch-1 space] 5 (6, 7, 8, 9, 10) times, ch 1, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch-1 space (corner made), place marker in last ch-1 made, [ch 1, sc in next ch-1 space] 42 (43, 44, 45, 46, 47) times, end with ch 1, sc in last sc, turn; change to next color in Color Sequence—94 (97, 100, 103, 106, 109) sc.
     
  2. Rows 22–44 (46, 48, 50, 52, 54) (pattern increase): With new color, *[ch 1, sc in next ch-1 space] to next marked corner ch-1 space, ch 1, (sc, ch 1, sc) in corner ch-1 space; rep from * once more; [ch 1, sc in next ch-1 space] across, end with ch 1, sc in last sc, turn; change to next color in Color Sequence—140 (147, 154, 161, 168, 175) sc. Remove markers.
     
  3. Row 45 (47, 49, 51, 53, 55): With new color, [ch 1, sc in next ch-1 space] across, end with ch 1, sc in last sc, turn; change to next color in Color Sequence.

 

Joining
The back section (between corners) will now be joined to each front section, skipping armhole stitches.

  1. Row 46 (48, 50, 52, 54, 56) (joining row): With new color, [ch 1, sc in next ch-1 space] 32 times, skip next 23 (25, 27, 29, 31, 33) ch-1 spaces (for armhole), ch 1, place marker in last ch-1 space made (for underarm), [sc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 30 (33, 36, 39, 42, 45) times, place marker in last ch-1 space made (for underarm), skip next 23 (25, 27, 29, 31, 33) ch-1 spaces (for armhole), [ch 1, sc in next ch-1 space] 31 times, end with ch 1, sc in last sc; change to next color in Color Sequence, turn—94 (97, 100, 103, 106, 109) sc.

 

Body

  1. Row 47 (49, 51, 53, 55, 57): With new color, [ch 1, sc in next ch-1 space] to marked ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in marked ch-1 space at underarm, [ch 1, sc in next ch-1 space] to next marked ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in marked ch-1 space at underarm, [ch 1, sc in next ch-1 space] across, end with ch 1, sc in last sc; change to next color in Color Sequence, turn.
     
  2. Rows 48 (50, 52, 54, 56, 58): With new color, [ch 1, sc in next ch-1 space] across, end with ch 1, sc in last sc; change to next color in Color Sequence, turn. Do not remove or move markers.
     
  3. Repeat last row 58 (59, 60, 61, 62, 63) more times or to desired length, changing colors per Color Sequence, end by working a row with A. Fasten off all colors.

 

Sleeves
Sleeves are worked in joined rounds, back and forth. So far, there is no obvious right side or wrong side. Make that decision now and as you work the sleeves you will carry unused strands of colors up the wrong side (inside of sleeve).  To avoid big holes at the underarms, begin each sleeve with a sc2tog that bridges the gap.

  1. With same color used in joining row, and moving in the opposite direction of armhole stitches, join yarn with slip st in the sc row edge just before the marked ch-1 space at underarm, inserting hook under two strands of row edge.
     
  2. Round 1: Ch 1, sc2tog over same row edge and row edge on other side of marked ch-1 space, [ch 1, sc in next ch-1 space] 23 (25, 27, 29, 31, 33) times around armhole, end with ch 1; join with slip st in first sc; change to next color in Color Sequence, turn—24 (26, 28, 30, 32, 34) sc.
     
  3. Round 2: With new color, [ch 1, sc in next ch-1 space] around, end with ch 1; join with slip st in first sc, turn.
     
  4. Repeat last round  58 (59, 60, 58, 59, 60) more times or to desired length, changing colors per Color Sequence, end by working a row with A. Fasten off all colors.

 

Finishing

  1. Using yarn needle, weave in ends.

Long Cardigan Diagram

 

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Ratings & Comments (10)

Jul 22, 2014

for row 2 it is sc ch1 all the way across it says to count the sc not the chains. All rows at least in the collar are the same length

 

Mar 1, 2014

Is there something wrong here? It seems kind of insane to need 66 balls of yarn to make an extra large, that's over 20,000 yards and even with simply soft being so reasonably priced, this would still be very expensive to make for a single project.

 

10 Ratings

Aug 29, 2013

I like this jacket but would do it in one color but really find the yardage amounts odd.

 

Aug 20, 2013

doesn't anyone else wonder why sizes small and med. require 2 and a quarter lbs of yarn and suddenly the large and larger and largest all require more than 4 pounds? How could a large suddenly require nearly twice as much yarn as a Med.??? This sounds very fishy and if I make this sweater, I intend to buy the yard a few skeins at a time and see how it goes. If this thing turned out anywhere close to 4lb when worked up, I'd probably never wear it - too heavy and too warm....

 

May 24, 2013

is there a site i can go to , to see how the foundaion row is done?

 

May 23, 2013

This is in an email I received as What to do with your scrap yarn. I don't believe this is done with scrap yarn.

 

Dec 2, 2012

I've just started this pattern this evening, when reading it I guess Im not understanding it: # 2 Row 1 I understand the first part ch1, skip next Fsc, sc in next Fsc across; but then it saya change to c and do (#) sc. I doesn't say this is row 2or ch 1 and also, its only about 1/2 of the length. won't this make it crooked... NOT UNDERSTANDING, what is further confusing # 3 is Row 2. Please anyone wih any suggestions, I love this pattern and want to make it for Christmas!

 

May 24, 2011

This would be great for my for my "first day of school" outfit. I would be perfect for the weather and style here.

 

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